Carricante

Fantastic Etna crescendo from vines up to 60 years old from a small single vineyard with wonderfully balanced iodine and citrus flavours. Softly flowing on the palate, profound in flavour, the fine acidity, inner sweetness and delicate woody notes are well integrated into the overall concept designed for a long maturation period. SUPERIORE.DE

"The phenolic tension and focus spreads on and on across the integrated palate. Medium- to full-bodied, this is flavorful with sliced apples and light pie-crust. Great finish." James Suckling

Benanti's latest white wine comes 100% from the small vineyard (Contrada) Cavaliere. The vineyards in the municipality of Santa Maria di Licodìa develop at a considerable altitude (approx. 900 metres above sea level) with favourable conditions for all indigenous varieties, both red and white berries, which are cultivated here with Guyot pruning. Here, both the Nerello and the Carricante produce wines with a well-defined structure and typical varietal flavours. The vines are around 50 years old and grow on sandy, volcanic soil that is rich in minerals. The climate is alpine, with little rainfall and provides the vines with a high degree of ventilation and very large temperature differences between day and night.

Straw yellow in colour with bright green reflections. The bouquet is intense, rich, generous and delicately fruity with hints of orange blossom and ripe apple. The palate is dry, mineral, harmonious with a pleasant acidity, aromatic pressure and an interesting aftertaste of aniseed and almonds. SUPERIORE.DE

"A little more mellow and riper than the Etna Bianco with its yellow-fruity character. In the mouth with a melting character that is beautifully balanced and wonderfully cushioned by the saline acidity, which also gives the wine freshness and piquancy." Weinwisser

"Intense and vertical, it's full of fresh citrus and herbs, with some leesy creaminess and a finish of lemon posset and pear. Delicious." Decanter

"This bright, open-knit white crackles with acidity and shows savoury notes of white pepper and grapefruit peel, as well as hints of peach skin, smoke, preserved lemon and lentils. Salty finish." Wine Spectator

"The 2022 Etna Bianco Contrada Cavaliere is youthfully shy with a delicately perfumed blend of wild flowers, white smoke and green apples with gingery notes. The wine is pure, elegant and refined, with a salty minerality on the attack and crunchy fruit that gives an equally crisp feel towards the finish. The 2022 finishes colourful and long with youthful tension, a hint of salinity and a feeling of liquid stone." Vinous

"This wine has the richness of the 2021 vintage, but is not heavy or ponderous. It shows intensity of flavour with cake crust, light caramel and dried fruit. Full-bodied, with a phenolic tension and acidity that give it its shape. Drink it now." James Suckling

The mineral Archineri made from the ancient Carricante grape from vines at an altitude of around 900 metres is quite exquisite. With great clarity and freshness, it displays its typical flavour profile of crushed rock, apple, banana, peach and citrus fruit. Fascinatingly dense on the palate with a velvety texture, a hint of chalk and a long, complex mineral finish. Pre-Phylloxera = from old, ungrafted vines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Fresh, engaging aromas of apple, pear, light-coloured stone fruit and flowers. Very juicy on the palate, wonderfully balanced with good freshness, a silky texture and a savoury final. The white Archineri already delivers consistently high quality for the price." Weinwisser

"Medium bright straw yellow with light reflections. Fine aromas of vineyard peach, mint, salted lemon and a hint of nutmeg on the nose. Very fresh and salty on the palate, straightforward and with a long final of citrus zest and fine minerality." Falstaff

"This is an intense and moreish white with a streak of salinity allied to pineappley fruit, a waft of herbs, and lovely sapidity." Decanter

"The 2022 Etna Bianco Archineri smells of a savoury blend of dusty dried flowers, shaved ginger and lime zest. It is round and supple, with a lovely inner sweetness and ripe orchard fruit balanced by a core of palpable minerals. The lively acidity makes for a pleasant final with medium length that leaves a hint of candied citrus and fresh mint." Vinous

"The nose is strongly characterised by citrus and stone fruit, but a subtle floral aroma adds elegance. The palate also begins citrus-driven before deeper, richer flavours of nuts, honey and herbs emerge. The salty finish brings a pleasant, unifying coolness." Wine Enthusiast

"Very pure and mineral nose, giving a stony, precise feel, almost as if you were sniffing in a quarry. Also some smoked tarragon and lemon peel. Impressive tension on the mid-palate with stimulating acidity and minerality. Pure and long. Delicious." James Suckling

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco is allowed to be bottled as Superiore - and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like a small tree on poles made of chestnut wood. The eastern exposure and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and a white wine with an aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Etna. SUPERIORE.DE

"Medium, sparkling straw yellow colour. Nose of pineapple and mango, some banana, underlaid with jasmine blossom, flint on the finish. Delicate fruit melt on the palate with fine acidity, the fruit is noticeable, citrus flavours on the finish, animating." Falstaff

"A structured white with razor-sharp acidity that combines with flavours of crisp white peach, green almond, crushed pine, lemon wax and petrol. Good tension and focus; it should open up well with short cellaring." Wine Spectator

"A burst of flint and smoke gives way to minty herbs and crushed green apples as the 2022 Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Rinazzo blossoms in the glass. It washes over the palate with a texture of pure silk, while salty minerals and citrusy fruit trees saturate the palate. The 2022 keeps the energy remarkably high, fuelled by zesty acidity, while notes of sour grapefruit ripple the tongue during the long and youthfully tense final. The Rinazzo is already enjoyable today, but it also has a balance that will be worth cellaring. Wonderfully made." Vinous

Initially, the wines from Etna led a rather shadowy existence; the great potential of the wines, some of which were produced in very small quantities, usually only delighted connoisseurs. Even today, many of the winegrowers are still so-called insider tips, as the wines produced in small quantities hardly appear on the international markets, or only in very homeopathic quantities. Like us here at SUPERIORE.DE, Angelo Gaja recognised the incomparable elegance and class, the minerality and the purist style of the Nerello and Carricante grapes early on and therefore entered into a joint venture with Alberto Graci a few years ago.

The great prestige and undisputed high value of the vineyards, which are up to 100 years old and divided into small parcels at an altitude of up to 1,000 metres, led to the purchase of land on the south-west side of the volcano, which was launched on the market in 2017/2019 with the red/white debut vintage. The project is called "Idda" - the local name for the Etna volcano, which the locals thus assign a clearly feminine character. Idda Bianco 2022 is now the fourth vintage from complex, iron- and copper-rich soils at 630 to 820 metres above sea level. Incidentally, these are - how could it be otherwise - among the oldest in the still young Etna DOC region.

What we immediately like about Idda Bianco is the authentic Sicilian character of its cheerful bouquet. This marvellous Carricante-based white opens with cedar wood, citrus fruits, orange peel and cherries. The fruit is never heavy, but instead offers an elegant aromatic intensity, followed by pistachio and perhaps a hint of wild fennel. The wine's volcanic identity comes into its own with ashy and salty mineral hints. Our unreserved enthusiasm for its creamy texture, length and energy! SUPERIORE.DE

"The Bianco convinces with the combination of the velvety quality of the vineyards in the south of the volcano and the salty-mineral character of the soils, its precise nose and length." Vinum

"It has a fine, smoky, flinty nose with hints of peach, mango and white flowers. In the mouth it is intense and vertical, with juicy succulence and great acidity that defines its edges. It is finely structured and tangy, with flavours of peach, citrus peel, honey, lime juice and white flowers, finishing with a gentle stoniness." Decanter

"A fresh, minerally white, with a finely meshed range of poached pear and persimmon fruit flavors, plus notes of Meyer lemon peel, almond blossoms, beeswax and chamomile. Reveals a pleasing, buoyant vibrancy to the integration of the fine china–like acidity and racy streak of salinity." Wine Spectator

"Sparkling and bright with green pear and lemon slices. Honeysuckle. Medium body with brightness and intensity of fruit. A hint of sea salt." James Suckling

"The 2022 Bianco is pleasing in many ways. It captivates with its unexpected richness of fruit, combining young peaches and apricots with white flowers and almond paste. It is round and smooth, but with an amazing mix of candied lime and salty minerals in the foreground, creating a contrast. Sweet florals on the inside complement the ripe stone fruits. The 2022 cleans beautifully, long and with a saline flair, while finishing crisp, full of tension yet delicious." Vinous

From the Contrada Arcuria in Passopisciaro on the north side of Mount Etna at an altitude of 600-700 metres, this 100% Carricante is vinified partly in cement tanks and partly in large oak barrels. The result is a fresh white wine from old vines with an invigorating citrus scent and notes of mint, rich in tropical fruit, taut and firm, with an elegant mineral note on the palate, with a fine finish and high complexity. 4,000 bottles are bottled per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

"The wickedly fresh 2022 Etna Bianco Arcuria lifts from the glass with an airy blend of dried flowers, crushed stones and nectarines. It displays silky textures and ripe orchard fruits motivated by cooling acidity as hints of gingery spice amass toward the close. A chalky sensation settles in through the finish as a bump of zesty acidity maintains fantastic energy. Sour citrus tones slowly taper." Vinous

"Ripe tropical fruits such as persimmon and mango, followed by flavours of golden apple and honeysuckle. Rich and creamy on the palate, with a phenolic aftertaste. Long and complex." James Suckling

The grapes for this fine white wine from the north side of Mount Etna come from the 3-hectare Contrada Muganazzi in the municipality of Passopisciaro. The skeleton-rich and pH-neutral soils are rich in iron and nitrogen and offer ideal conditions for fresh, acidic and mineral white wines. The wine is matured in equal parts in wood and stainless steel for 12 months on the fine lees. Muganazzi is neither a lean wine, nor is it too full-bodied. It is somewhere in between, with thick layers of peach, apricot and lots of fresh citrus fruit. The mineral notes such as gravel, flint and volcanic ash are very evident. An elegant, powerful Carricante with great drinking flow that clearly shows the signature of the sensitive Alberto Graci. SUPERIORE.DE

"This is a very fresh and lively white wine with flavours of lime zest, stones, lemon peel, mussels and herbs. Medium body with bright acidity. Textured finish." James Suckling

"This elegant white shows fine knit, layering sleek acidity with flavors of star fruit and persimmon, Marcona almond and quince paste, plus accents of chamomile and white pepper. The finish is driven by a rich underpinning of salty minerality." Wine Spectator

"This 2021 is the second vintage from Graci's Contrada Muganazzi, located in Passopisciaro and made from the estate's youngest vines. Aromatic summer meadow, lemon, peach and apple lead to a very flavoursome, stony palate with juicy peach, orange zest and a waxy character on the finish." Decanter

"The 2021 Etna Bianco Muganazzi is the star among the white wines in the Graci portfolio. The wine offers a nice texture with mild creaminess and good complexity. You get candied lemon, honey and pastry cream, and of course there is gravel and volcanic ash to make an ever more interesting wine. This is a light-coloured white wine from a purely volcanic area. Give it a little more time to develop." Wine Advocate

100% Carricante of incredible elegance and purity, its subtle aroma of herbs and citrus fruits is complemented on the palate by a wonderful minerality and salinity. A white wine full of expressiveness and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

"Carlo Ferrini's white wine interpretation of old bush trees: A mineral start, then plenty of finesse, the acidity invigorating but excellently integrated, the final precise and long. For a balmy summer afternoon." Vinum

"Bright straw yellow colour with subtle silver notes. Opens with notes of fresh, crisp apple, some jasmine blossom and citrus fruit. Salty and clear on the palate, spreads out well, fine citrus notes." Falstaff

"Carricante is the characteristic white grape variety of Etna, and this unripened example - only the second vintage from legendary winemaker Carlo Ferrini and his daughter Bianca - captures the unique character of the place and the grape variety: Bright and salty, it presents aromas and flavours of lemon, lime and apple. It is structured and ripe, but also very fresh, with a stony, salty wave followed by a subtle, creamy lemon confit. The finish is very long, fine and herbaceous. Marvellous." Decanter

"Lots of jasmine and honeysuckle with flavours of sliced pear and apples that develop into a medium body with wonderful depth and intensity. Great length. No wood. Flinty in flavour. Pure." James Suckling

"The Alberelli di Giodo 2021 Sicilia Carricante hits just the right mix of citrus fruit and salty minerals. The wine is balanced and intense and shows more complexity than one might expect. As it matures, it will develop even more complexity and show some of the beautiful Riesling-like petrol flavours over time. Production is limited to around 3,500 bottles." Wine Advocate

"Pure Carricante from an impeccable cru, a jewel produced in a few bottles of great refinement. On the nose, notes of candied lemon, thyme, then chinotto and a hint of jasmine. On the palate, it is taut, flavoursome, with a return of citrus fruits and floral sensations." Luca Gardini

100% Carricante of incredible elegance and purity, its subtle aroma of herbs and citrus fruits is complemented on the palate by a wonderful minerality and salinity. A white wine full of expressiveness and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

"The white wine comes from the Contrada Rampante, which stands for rising high. Very finesse-rich and complex with notes of fine yellow fruit, herbs and hints of broom bush. The whole is wonderfully framed by smoke. Medium-bodied on the palate with a fine melting texture and mineral-saline flavour." Weinwisser

"Light, bright straw yellow with silver reflections. Yellow pear and gooseberry on the nose, citrus zest, delicately complemented by white flowers. Elegant fruit on the palate, coated in juiciness and with salty nuances, very direct until the long final, ending on citrus notes." Falstaff

"This is a pure Carricante with honeysuckle, lemons and light grapefruit with a salty sensation in the flavours. The same character is evident on the palate with a medium to full body, a creamy texture and a lovely finish. Lemongrass and minerals underline the subtle fruit flavours and acidity. Tangy. Clean and clear nature." James Suckling

"Fragrant white wildflowers on the nose, mixed with dried herbs and aromatic peaches and lychees. Crisp yet round, a lovely burst of citrus, juiciness on the palate with high acidity and then revealing more creamy white peach and pear with subtle wet stone, salinity and herbal spice at the edges. It feels like a serious gourmet wine, with body, structure and yet plenty of life. The finish is mineral and savoury, with a hint of warmth and southern Italian spice. 100% Carricante vines, on average 50 years old, planted between 800-900 metres above sea level." Decanter

The grapes for this fine white wine from the north side of Mount Etna come from the 3-hectare Contrada Muganazzi in the municipality of Passopisciaro. The skeleton-rich and pH-neutral soils are rich in iron and nitrogen and offer ideal conditions for fresh, acidic and mineral white wines. The wine is matured in equal parts in wood and stainless steel for 12 months on the fine lees. Muganazzi is neither a lean wine, nor is it too full-bodied. It is somewhere in between, with thick layers of peach, apricot and lots of fresh citrus fruit. The mineral notes such as gravel, flint and volcanic ash are very evident. An elegant, powerful Carricante with great drinking flow that clearly shows the signature of the sensitive Alberto Graci. SUPERIORE.DE

"From the estate's youngest vines, located in contrada Muganazzi in Passopisciaro, this 2022 is zesty and quite savoury, with a woody character to the lemon peel and pineapple fruit, and ending with a very salty finish." Decanter

"The 2022 Etna Bianco Munganazzi opens with a floral fragrance of wild herbs and crushed green apples accompanied by a hint of wet stone. It is soothingly round and supple with crisp fruit and juicy acidity balanced by a core of salty minerals and spice. The finish is crisp and long, with a lemony aftertaste that lingers. The Muganazzi comes from vines planted only ten years ago, but it has a depth and concentration that I find very compelling." Vinous

"Lemongrass, dried chamomile tea leaves and a hint of bitter almond and damp hay. Medium body with spicy and flinty undertones on the palate. Subtly smoky finish at the end. Mineral notes on the finish. Pure Carricante. Better in a year or two, but already attractive now." James Suckling

Giuseppe Russo cultivates part of the 12-hectare San Lorenzo vineyard at an altitude of around 750 metres on the slopes of Mount Etna near Randazzo. The lava flows of recent decades have created a porous soil here, rich in volcanic rock and therefore providing excellent drainage.

Just 2,000 bottles are filled each year. The vines, which are over 80 years old, produce an extremely low yield, making the result all the more complex and multi-layered. Fine salinity, light-coloured stone fruit and a well-measured extract sweetness flow from the glass. A good structure on the palate, the acidity and noticeable minerality support the subtle flavours of white peach and grapefruit. The finish is smoky with a nice salty note. It is at its best at 12° and will be even better in a few years! SUPERIORE.DE

"Dusty white peach and orange peel scents are mirrored in the mouth, with some grapefruit, earth and wood tones. There's good intensity, and some ripe pineapple and floral notes emerge on the mid-palate before a fresh, lip-smacking salty finish. Delicious." Decanter

"An attractive wine with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, white flowers, stones and ash. Medium-bodied, multi-layered and complex, but at the same time lively and fresh. Juicy and exciting with a savoury, slightly phenolic and mineral finish." James Suckling

"The 2022 Etna Bianco San Lorenzo is shy in the glass and slowly awakens with a flavoursome blend of young peaches accompanied by grapefruit, rosemary and wet stone. The wine is very structured, silky and supple, with a depth of green apple and melon that soothes the senses. A saline note emerges on the finish, while the 2022 cleanses beautifully, leaving a mentholated freshness as the mango notes fade. The San Lorenzo is an absolute charmer and aims to please." Vinous

"With only a few vintages under his belt, Giuseppe Russo has created a beautiful top-class white wine from Etna. I tasted this sample about a month after bottling, and at this young stage the bouquet is very centred on citrus and salty minerals. But if you look beyond these two aromatic pillars, the wine reveals subtle layers of green apple, quince, pear and saffron. It shows a shy but compelling complexity." Wine Advocate

"Fragrant bouquet with yellow fruit, apricot stones and Williams pear. Very finely contoured structure on the palate with silky and juicy flavours and a wonderfully finesse-rich length. A great Etna Bianco that could do with a little more ageing in the bottle!" Weinwisser

"The complex mineral nose shows candied cedar, flint, smoky depth and a slightly toasty character. Super soft on the attack with medium body and good weight, lemon and mirabelle plum flavours meld with crisp, long acidity and a silky finish." James Suckling

"A new white wine from Girolamo Russo, from the Contrada Feudo in Randazzo. It is earthy and floral and has an appealing, spicy aroma of apricot peel, followed by creamy yellow plums, pineapple, lemon peel and blood oranges in the mouth. The finish is mineral, fruity and salty with a long aftertaste." Decanter

Noblesse is the very first and still extremely rare bottle-fermented sparkling wine made from Carricante, the noble indigenous white grape of the Etna volcano. The grapes come from 20-60 year old vines that are planted both in the traditional bush vine (albarello) and in rows using the Guyot training system. Pale straw yellow in colour with light greenish reflections. Very delicate and persistent perlage, fine foam. Intense on the nose, with a delicate aroma of orange and lemon blossom and ripe apple. Wonderfully fresh and dry on the palate, elegant, with pleasant acidity and a lovely aromatic, delicately yeasty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco is allowed to be bottled as Superiore - and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like a small tree on poles made of chestnut wood. The eastern exposure and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in consistently high acidity levels and a white wine with an aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Etna.

Pietra Marina is a single-varietal Carricante from vines over 80 years old at an altitude of around 950 metres on the eastern side of the volcano. The grapes are not harvested until October each year. Orange blossom, lychee, elderberry and apple on the nose. Harmonious and balanced on the palate, with perfectly integrated acidity and a beautiful finish. Distinct character, full of elegance, profound, sensual and endowed with a stunningly clean spectrum of flavours. One of the rarest and certainly most interesting white wines in Italy! SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright straw yellow with light green notes. Opens with notes of flint and matchstick, lots of grapefruit. Beautiful interplay of acidity and salt on the palate, straightforward, fresh citrus fruit." Falstaff

"A statuesque white with razor-sharp acidity, interwoven with finely woven flavours of apricot, persimmon and Marcona almond, showing accents of lemon oil, honeysuckle and pine. The silky texture has a beautiful, feather-light quality, while a racy hint of salinity defines the very long finish." Wine Spectator

"This intense Etna is full of tension, showing candied cedar, kerosene, apricots and orange blossoms. Light- to medium-bodied, it has a bone-dry style with crisp acidity, minerals and a tight, slightly austere finish." James Suckling

"The Etna Bianco Superiore Pietra Marina 2019 is captivating. It is perfumed and floral, with enriching notes of almond paste and candy spice that perfectly accentuate a smoky core of white peaches. The palate has more verve but is somewhat restrained, with wiry textures and an intense mineral core that adds depth to the citrus-influenced orchard fruits. The nervy acidity makes the mouth water and provides a dazzling freshness, while flowers and sour limes linger on the inside. The 2019 is still a small child today, compact yet complex, balanced and full of character." Vinous

The Carricante grapes for this extremely rare Etna Bianco come from phylloxera-resistant (pre-phylloxera) vines from a single vineyard on the eastern slope of Etna at an altitude of 800 metres. Only a single oak barrel is filled each year, resulting in less than 2,000 bottles per vintage.

Rich golden yellow with amber-coloured accents. Complex and well-structured aroma of herbs, yellow fruit and flint. Indescribable depth on the palate with a salty note, fresh fruit and mineral persistence. The final is firm and precise, the tension is perfectly balanced and the long-lasting impression is unique! SUPERIORE.DE

"Deep straw yellow with copper-coloured reflections. Serious, concentrated but restrained bouquet with hints of exotic spices, dried apricots and cedar wood as well as a faint hint of brioche. Initially straightforward and dense, it then opens up on the palate. Viscous lemon and grapefruit with a very subtle tannin structure. The finish is characterised by citrus fruits that provide a thrill. Complex, long and needs further bottle ageing." Jancis Robinson

"Ripe, slightly honeyed dried citrus, grilled pineapple and spice on the nose, following though to a medium palate with a tight bead of dry spice and fruit. Compact, slightly challenging finish for now." James Suckling

"Made from grapes from 100 to 120 year old vines, this deep golden wine has enticing aromas of lychee, Spanish broom and wet stone. Round and enveloping, the elegant palate also shows depth and concentrated flavours of creamy pear, ripe yellow peach and tangy salinity alongside bright acidity." Wine Enthusiast

"Here is a wine that will keep Carricante lovers on their toes. The Pietradolce 2018 Sant'Andrea opens with a saturated golden colour and offers completely unexpected aromas of candied almonds, apricots, honey, saffron, pastry cream and so on. The complexity of the wine reveals additional layers of roasted herbs and crushed stone. Prolonged maceration on the skins is the particular style of vinification that gives Sant'Andrea its unique identity. There is a hint of dusty tannin on the finish. This wine is bottled in an edition of 1,800 bottles." Wine Advocate

"The frosted brass sheen of this profound white wine, along with tantalising aromas of sun-warmed peach skin, saffron and oyster shells, draw you into the glass where a rich palette of flavours awaits. Notes of dried apricots, white cherries, orange pits, almond shells, cloves and honeycomb are underpinned by a fine, chalky texture and pronounced acidity with a hint of Mediterranean scrub." Wine Spectator

"It's very floral and fragrant, with a structured, waxy palate that has addictive notes of grapefruit, apricot skin, baked apple, exotic spices and even a grappa/grape skin component. It's really fresh, yet rich and complex and will be rewarding for cellaring." Decanter

The Carricante grapes for this extremely rare Etna Bianco come from over 100-year-old, phylloxera-resistant vines from a single vineyard on the eastern slope of Etna at an altitude of 800 metres. Only a single oak barrel is filled each year, resulting in less than 2,000 bottles per vintage.

Rich golden yellow with amber-coloured accents. Complex and well-structured aroma of herbs, yellow fruit and flint. Indescribable depth on the palate with a salty note, fresh fruit and mineral persistence. The final is firm and precise, the tension is perfectly balanced and the long-lasting impression is unique! SUPERIORE.DE

"The spicy, umami nose of old pecorino and wild herbs is in exciting tension with the sweetness of honey and the acidity of lemons. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and refreshing, tannic and nutty, but also persistently citrusy, while this umami note is joined by a subtle earthiness that introduces a finish with bitter almond skin." Wine Enthusiast

"Medium golden colour. Hints of lemon curd and toast on minerals and pineapple. Nicely phenolic and structured on the palate with bright acidity and some firm tannins. Full-bodied, long and very energetic." James Suckling