Falstaff

High-quality grappa stravecchia made from a selection of the best marcs of Trentino, aged for at least 18 (diciotto) months in small barrels of noble wood. With its delicate aromas and round, soft taste, Le Diciotto Lune was also able to conquer the female audience. SUPERIORE.DE

Amarone Classico is made from grapes grown in the vineyards of the classic Valpolicella area at the entrance to the Marano Valley. The drying process of the carefully selected grapes takes about 120 days. After fermentation, the wine matures in wooden barrels for at least 3 years.

Dark cherries, plums, smoke, mint, liquorice, sweet herbs and crushed rose petals swirl around in the glass as the wine gradually opens. Lively and lively, it features an expressive and well-defined personality and seriousness. For all its depth, the 2017 edition is an almost weightless Amarone built on finesse and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright shimmering ruby red. Finely marked on the nose, slightly barrel-spicy, savoury cherry and plum fruit, as well as blood orange and rosehip on the finish, white pepper. Very juicy and radiant on the palate, compact and polished, with tension and vibration until the final." Falstaff

"Exotic spices and dusty black cherry are complemented by a vivid notes of cinnamon and dried flowers as the remarkably pretty 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico opens in the glass. This is cool-toned and seamless in feel, coasting across the palate with mineral-tinged red berries, hints of sour citrus and exotic spices, all energized by brilliant acidity. The 2017 finishes long, lightly structured and staining without a hint of its 16.5% abv and amazing balance." Vinous

"This shows excellent intensity on the nose, with suggestive notes of sweet raspberries, Christmas spices, nutmeg and hints of salted plums, caramel and chocolate. Very flavorful, but agile and silky on the medium-to full-bodied palate. Signature Amarone warmth and bittersweet berry and chocolate in the finish, with some savory and sweet spice, too. Long and complex." James Suckling

The grapes for this delightful red cuvée of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère come exclusively from the estate's own vineyards. Terre offers present notes of black cherry, spices and blackberry. It is a moody, lively and very fruit-accentuated red that will give a lot of pleasure over the next few years! SUPERIORE.DE

"Intense ruby red colour with limited transparency. Very fragrant and elegant on the nose of forest fruits, cherries, thyme and sage, with a light undergrowth note. Fresh and juicy on the palate with a medium structure, fine-grained tannins and a fruity final." Falstaff

"On the nose, savoury spices, dried leaves, red plums, charcoal, redcurrants and iron. Juicy and fine-grained on the palate, with a medium body and a juicy, peppery finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere." James Suckling

The rare Riserva Vorberg from Pinot Bianco is open, elegant and expressive. Brilliant straw yellow in colour with light green tones. Generous bouquet with delicately nuanced flavours of peach, apricot and spices. Cool, deep and with all the advantages of the grape variety on the palate. A noble Pinot Blanc with plenty of persistence and potential. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright straw yellow, sparkling. Roasted hazelnuts and pine nuts on the nose, with fine resinous tones, then yellow fruit with hints of pear and sage on the finish. Hearty, pure, taut on the palate with racy acidity and well-integrated fruit, medium-bodied, round and fine on the finish." Falstaff

"Initially dominated by floral scents, camomile, jasmine, peach blossom. Then also quince, pear, candied pineapple, tart grapefruit. A melting palate, now clear fruit, juicy, spicy foundation, a little salty. Vertical style, focused in the centre of the mouth." Vinous

"An elegant, fine white wine with dense flavours of yellow plum, melon rind, chamomile and lemon wax. With a slightly chalky texture and mouth-watering acidity, it is long and supple, with grapefruit peel, ground pink pepper and mineral notes on the finish." Wine Spectator

"Restrained, with notes of white flowers and peach flavours, then to a palate of restrained oak, ripe melon and peach." Decanter

"The 2021 Pinot Bianco Riserva Vorberg is youthfully upright, with an airy mix of wild herbs and dried flowers that fade into young peaches and apricots. The palate is seamlessly silky and serene, almost oily, with a lively acidity to balance and a depth of ripe fruit and mineral tones to satiate. The balance is perfect, lightly tannic and full of tension with a lemony concentration that puckers the cheeks as minty herbal notes fade. Green apple notes add a crisp sensation towards the end. This fantastic interpretation of the Vorberg will thrive in a cool cellar." Vinous

"Vorberg is one of the world's great Pinot Blancs and opens with a fragrant aroma of ripe pear, green apple and a hint of almond. On the palate, it is lively with an interplay of citrus and stone fruit, carried by a refreshing acidity. The wine culminates in a structured finish that covers the whole range of cuisine." Wine Enthusiast

"Restrained apricot skins, fairly neutral yet stylish, but with a floral bouquet that opens up. The attack is full and impressively vibrant, almost electric, with filigree elegance and a silky, weighted palate. Long and polished. This is incredible. Drink now or cellar for more complexity." James Suckling

Strong ruby-purple colour, the bouquet exudes clear, fresh fruit, blackcurrants and raspberries. Spicy on the palate with supple tannins, sweet melting, rich and with a long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Dense, impenetrable purple-red colour with violet reflections. Multi-layered nose with cedar wood in the foreground, followed by spices with finely balanced plum. Slightly greenish on the palate with pleasant tannins, has potential." Falstaff

"Fragrant redcurrant and blueberry fruit, underlaid with mint and violets; creamy and structured with silky tannins and a refreshing finish." Decanter

Feudi's Riserva Piano di Montevergine is only vinified in outstanding years. The wine has a very impressive concentration and great richness in every vintage. Dark and brooding on first impression, it slowly awakens in the glass with a captivating blend of menthol, mint and exotic spices that evolves with a lively note of cinnamon-dusted redcurrant. This velvety-smooth and elegant wine appears heavy at first, but is quickly enlivened by a core of vibrant acidity and zesty citrus notes that embellish the tart black fruits. The tannins on the finish are sweet and chalky, while notes of wild red plum and blood orange keep the tasterer coming back for more. SUPERIORE.DE

"Dark ruby red with garnet reflections. Ripe fruit of plums, heart cherries and bay leaf on the nose, underlaid with cedar wood, tobacco leaf and cardamom. Very polished and straightforward on the palate with gripping tannins and a very spicy final." Falstaff

"Aromas of juicy red cherries, baked strawberries and sage. Medium-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Fresh and juicy on the palate with beautifully balanced red fruits. Subtle length. Charming." James Suckling

"The hot and dry 2017 vintage may be too much for most Italian appellations, but for Irpinia it is one of the best harvests. This Riserva comes from the village of Taurasi. Its dark purple colour and dark fruit profile with cassis and cherry are complemented by an aftertaste of dark chocolate, pistachio and sweet tobacco. The palate is compact with taut, chalky tannins and fresh fruit flavours and shows great balance at this stage. However, it lacks a little complexity, although it will develop more layers as it ages." Decanter

"The Feudi di San Gregorio 2017 Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine is one of Campania's flagship red wines and carries some of the heaviness and softness of this notoriously hot and dry growing season. The fruit comes from a beautiful site with volcanic sand and clay soils. This release is more open and approachable than some of the recent releases, which we have put aside for a long maturation in the cellar." Wine Advocate

Pas Dosé - here the normally added dosage is omitted, which after disgorgement determines not only the sugar content but also the style of the sparkling wine fermented in the bottle. Instead, the volume naturally lost during the years of bottle ageing is replaced by other wines of the house, which, however, do not further influence the sugar content. Thus we have here an extremely dry sparkling wine, which, however, in no way lacks volume, character and finely modelled taste nuances. Straw yellow in the glass, bright fruits, herbs, citrus and wild flowers on the nose. In the drink, then, an impressively fine perlage and texture that reveals layers of spices, dried fruits and slightly salty components. Its creaminess and elegance is flanked by a well-proportioned, well-integrated and fresh acidity and delights into the full-bodied, lingering finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Aromas of apple pie, with a hint of swirl. Lively bubbles with irregular bead. Drier flavours than expected from the nose, but always in the realm of apple. Tasty." James Suckling

"Intense straw yellow with green shimmer, persistent perlage. Restrained nose of honeydew melon, mango and yellow flowers. On the palate with good tension, fine pressure and salty undertone, fine-grained perlage and clean finish." Falstaff

For some years now, Matteo Catania has been holding back a few hundred bottles of his wines in the best vintages in order to offer them to his most loyal importers after a few years. From this "private reserve" comes Neromaccarj 2010, which is now - in spring 2023 - offered in small quantities with 9 years of further bottle ageing quasi in Riserva quality.

Dark colour, beautiful bouquet of Mediterranean herbs and balsamic notes, ripe, fruity morello cherry and date fruit, rich in silky tannins, that's how it is, the magnificent and expressive Nero d'Avola single-vineyard wine Neromaccarj. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich ruby with bright violet glints. Multi-layered and inviting nose, smells of dried tomatoes, fresh plums and blackberries, also sandalwood and pepper. Lots of juicy, present fruit on the palate, fresh and crisp, then opens with fine-grained tannin, salty and persistent on the final." Falstaff

"Gulfi's wines are characterized by thick concentration, dark extraction and full throttle aromas. The 2010 Neromàccarj shows all of those qualities in ample doses. You really get a sense of the hot Sicilian summer as you contemplate the bouquet. Sweet cherry and ripe blackberry are the dominant aromas. Dig deeper and subtle tones of grilled herb, licorice and crushed mineral also begin to appear. These aromas build in intensity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. The tannins are soft and the finish is long." Wine Advocate

Concentrated ruby red with garnet-coloured reflections. The wood contributes very slight hints of roasted coffee to the predominantly black cherry and berry aroma. Full and very intense flavour of dark berries, very slight hints of violets and plums, the compact tannins are supported by balsamic notes, with fine liquorice tones in the finish. The harmony that this powerful and already delicious Aglianico hints at today will only fully come into its own after a few years of ageing in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, intense ruby colour with a noticeable rim. Dark nose of blackberries, dark chocolate, coffee and a hint of tar. Rolls gently over the palate, spicy fruit paired with velvety tannins, round and powerful into the long finish." Falstaff

"This wine has aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, dried herbs, tobacco and dark chocolate. On the palate, it is firm and toasty, with a full body and chewy tannins. Ambitious but balanced." James Suckling

100% white vinified Pinot Nero with complex aromas, beautiful body, persistence and impressive elegance. Intense yellow with a delicate copper hue. Powerful on the palate with fine, persistent perlage and foam. With just 3 g of residual sugar, a very precise and racy Franciacorta in a class of its own. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright straw yellow with persistent perlage. In the nose with delicate smoky notes, of blood oranges and red berries as well as candied pear, fine sea salt in the aftertaste. Seems very pure on the palate, almost austere, very straightforward and with great juice, bone dry, lingers very long." Falstaff

The 46th edition of Ca' del Bosco's classic consists of 76% vintage wine 2021, 21% reserve wine 2020 and 3% reserve wine 2019. The consistently award-winning Cuvée Prestige is a perfect archetype of its DOC: elegant, fresh, full, with a continuous perlage, elegant creaminess and a beautiful body. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, rich straw yellow with gold, long-lasting perlage. Orange blossom, candied orange, dried pineapple and delicate flavours of blood orange on the nose. Great juiciness on the palate, pleasant mouthfeel thanks to the finely organised perlage, light, salty and finesse-rich finish." Falstaff

"Intense floral nose with flavours of nuts, pears and stone fruit. Large, supple bubbles with a medium body, refreshing, brilliant acidity and good length." James Suckling

"The Extra Brut Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige 46 Edizione from the 2021 vintage exudes a bouquet in the glass that combines richness with an airy quality that inspires the senses. Exotic flowers, tropical citrus fruits and young peach resonate. The wine is round and soothing, with a creamy wave of soothing bubbles carried by a lively acidity. It finishes savoury and long, leaving a hint of candied lemon and floral scents lingering on the palate." Vinous

"The Stilèma project was born as a testimony of Antonio Mastroberardino's love for his land, his vines and his wines, for their original character." Piero Mastroberardino

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. In this way, the Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the autochthonous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the end of the 1950s and the beginning of the 1970s of the twentieth century for the Taurasi and between the years 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and today impressively highlights the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed by high concentration and intensity alone.

Stilèma Greco di Tufo Riserva is a blend of grapes from the Montefusco, Tufo and Petruro Irpino vineyards. During the cellar processes, special attention was paid to the malolactic fermentation and the ageing phase, which give the wine density and consistency. Pale straw yellow with greenish reflections. On the nose, notes of ripe fruit, lychee and grapefruit, yellow flowers, dried fruit and figs. Powerful but agile taste with a pronounced salty note, accompanied by a surprising freshness that gives it drinkability and finesse. It closes with a subtle and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich straw yellow with greenish reflections. In the nose of tropical fruits, lychee and grapefruit, in the aftertaste iodine, flint and slightly herbal, very complex. On the palate filigree, very salty and fresh, drinky, with draught, long and mineral final." Falstaff

"The 2018 Greco di Tufo Riserva Stilèma is rich and sweet-smelling, captivating with a tropical blend of green melon and exotic flowers. On the palate, it flows with a medium-heavy texture that feels silky and shows mineral fruit and savoury spices. The 2018 finishes with admirable depth and concentration, ending with a saline feel and notes of lime and liquid stones. While enjoyable, this wine is still very young and needs further ageing to reveal its hidden charms." Vinous

"Peachy piney notes at the start, evolving into more pronounced notes of fresh white grapes, yellow peaches and minerals on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, bright and concentrated. An interesting and refined Greco." James Suckling

"Here is a new wine from Mastroberardino, and what a charming beauty it is. The 2018 Greco di Tufo Riserva Stiléma takes advantage of the new "Riserva" status and offers us a glimpse into the age-worthiness of Greco. It is a white wine with a soft texture and medium-weight approach. The bouquet shows a filigree of lemon curd, pastry cream, saffron and wet stone." Wine Advocate

Andrian's Juvelo gem comes from limestone gravel soil interspersed with angular white dolomite rock. The harvest usually takes place in November, when almost 100% of the grapes are affected by botrytis (noble rot). Rich, sparkling golden yellow colour. Clearly characterised, intense nose, with notes of dried apricot, quince, raspberry and beeswax in the background. Balanced and clear on the attack and finish, very precise, also shows notes of apricot on the palate, some quince, very long final. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, sparkling, intense golden yellow colour. Warm and spicy on the nose with creamy honey, preserved apricot and a hint of nutmeg in the background. On the palate with a full-bodied, exotic fruit centre, sweetness paired with vibrant acidity, harmonious and long." Falstaff

"It's beautiful, with candied apricots, dried mangoes, persimmons, orange peel and dried flowers on the nose. It's sweet but bright and vibrant, with a creamy texture. Clean, lively and full of delicious fruit." James Suckling

"Aromatically, it is fruitier (fresh peach, nectarine and apricot) than many of its French Vendange Tardive or Sélection de Grains Nobles peers. On the palate, it is relatively low in acidity but lusciously sugary - a fruit tart in a glass, dusted with the finest sugar spice imaginable. The overall texture is lighter than many sweet wines from Alsace, which tend to have a richer tannic profile. It is the most beautiful of dessert wines and perfect for afternoon tea." Decanter

Selected grape marc from fully ripe and aromatic Prosecco grapes from the Conegliano region is carefully distilled for this grappa and matured in barriques for 18 months. Enjoy the special fruit flavours of Prosecco in a golden-coloured, mild Grappa Riserva with a soft finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright light gold colour. Smells of white bread, candy floss, flaked almonds and butterscotch on the nose. Sultanas on the palate, with a soft, sugary finish, slightly burnt on the finish." Falstaff

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepesolo, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do that. The blend of indigenous grape varieties, with Sangiovese and Montepulciano clearly in the foreground, unmistakably expresses its terroir and is understood worldwide in the process. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, sparkling ruby red with a dark core. Filigree in the nose with discreet notes of ripe cherry, blueberries and red roses. On the palate with fine fruit melt, creamy and with beautiful fruit, juicy, young but fine-grained tannin, slightly salty on the lingering finish." Falstaff

"Fresh raspberries and blackberries with smoke and asphalt. Medium-to full-bodied. Tight and focused. Creamy and very fine tannins. Give it two or three years to open but already delicious." James Suckling

"The 2020 Eneo does not have the same fruit flesh and mass as the 2019 vintage, but it shows a lot of richness and intensity, especially on the bouquet. Perhaps the flavours in this wine are more focused and sharper, and there is a nice mineral note that forms a through line between the bouquet and the medium to full mouthfeel. This vintage feels more approachable than the 2019." Wine Advocate

"The 2020 Eneo is bright and effusive, with notable aromatic presence but perhaps a bit less textural intensity than most years. That will make it easy to drink with minimal cellaring. Red cherry fruit, blood orange, mint, cinnamon and a hint of cedar linger." Vinous

Confini can justifiably be described as one of Friuli's best white wines. This crescendo is an exciting blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Riesling, with the strong flavours of Traminer clearly leading the way. Medium-bodied on the palate, with a creamy fullness and silky intensity, with hints of tropical fruit, gingerbread and exotic flowers. In the final third, the palate is then again wide-ranging, full of freshness, juicy acidity and grace - and with the lasting, deep impression that more than does justice to a top wine from this appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright golden yellow colour. Intense, aromatic nose, lots of fruit exoticism, mango and papaya, followed by rose petals and white pepper. Powerful on the palate, with phenolic grip, mouthwatering, animating, harmonious acidity structure, long, spicy final." Falstaff

"The 2019 Confini is uncannily fresh, emerging from the glass with an array of sweet herbs and wet stones that give way to a vibrant lime pudding. It is soft and round with an almost oily texture and a cascade of liquid flowers under a hint of incense and exotic spices. Zesty acidity resonates on the finish, while the 2019 finishes longer and is more savoury than expected. A salty note slowly fades. The Confini 2019 is a wine of constant contrasts. It is a blend of Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer and Riesling." Vinous

"Very aromatic with ripe pineapple, lychees and glazed lemons with dried flowers and spicy herb undertones. Medium- to full-bodied, tense and energetic with steady acidity and a firm, lightly phenolic mid-palate. Hints of dried leaves and citrus peel at the end." James Suckling

Beautifully weighted, the 2019 edition is full yet agile with enough structure to carry it over the next decade. Above all, it emphasises the freshness and balance of the vintage: the aromas unfold slowly, but are very floral, with cherry and thyme blossoms underscored by peppery notes. Crisp red plums and juicy cherries dominate the palate, with the youthful, grippy tannins needing a little time to integrate perfectly. SUPERIORE.DE

"It opens with a fruity flavour of red and blue fruits, with spicy notes reminiscent of cinnamon and cardamom. Dense and creamy in the mouth, very juicy, still a little grippy in the tannins, a modern Brunello that should be ready to drink in 1 to 2 years." Weinwisser

"Bright ruby red colour. Ripe blackberries, some undergrowth, dried oregano and loam on the nose. Great tension on the palate, juicy, dark fruit, tightly woven tannins and a precise final with pressure." Falstaff

"Deep to dark ruby red in colour. Deep, brooding and backward on the nose, but with real precision. Lots of juicy red fruit and impressive, fine-grained tannins. Still a little embryonic, but already hard to resist. Pure class." Jancis Robinson

"Pure and refined wine with lively raspberries, red cherries, rosehips and a hint of citrus blossom. Medium to full-bodied with firm but silky tannins. Excellent acid backbone. Enjoyable now, but give it another two to three years to develop." James Suckling

"Deep notes of dried black cherries meet cedar shavings and worn leather as the seductive Brunello di Montalcino 2019 slowly unfolds in the glass. It is surprisingly juicy and energising, with a pure blend of red fruits and inner flowers accompanied by fresh acidity. Fine tannins assert themselves on the finish as the 2019 takes on a youthful tension and pinches the cheeks, while tart cranberry notes fade into a youthful, crisp final." Vinous

"The certified organic Col d'Orcia 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows ripe fruit, blackberry, earthy notes, liquorice and, generally speaking, a much bigger and riper fruit profile compared to its peers. It offers a full-bodied Brunello opulence that can be enjoyed in the short or medium term, and the wine delivers flavours of dried fruit such as plum and fig to finish. The tannins are velvety and contribute to the richness of the rather forward and immediate mouthfeel." Wine Advocate

"The 2019 is immediately inviting and expressive. It seduces with lovely tones of red rose, cherry and sweet thyme. Expansive and spacious, the palate unfolds fluidly with layers of delicious red plum and pomegranate. Hibiscus, rosewater and orange hide in every crevice. A brilliant demonstration of the flavourful juiciness of Sangiovese. Deceptively gentle at the start, fine sandy tannins build in a worthy crescendo." Decanter

"This densely packed version is resonant and persistent, with fine integration of all its components, though today it is compact and austere, revealing flavours of cherry, raspberry, rose, earth and minerals. Give it the benefit of the doubt." Wine Spectator

"Notes of marasca, geranium and eucalyptus on the nose. Juicy tannins on the palate, balsamic and floral notes, compact flavour and crispness." Luca Gardini

Sparkling ruby red colour, fine aroma of honey, pickled cherries, gingerbread spices and plums. Full-bodied and dense on the palate, with lots of ripe fruit, a rich flavour, noticeable tannin on the finish - and great potential. SUPERIORE.DE

"Dark, bright ruby red colour. Great, memorable aroma of ripe peach, rich wild berries and rich cherries on the nose, subtle hints of pear, pomegranate, fine cedar wood and some smoke. Elegant entry and progression on the palate, on Assam tea, with beautiful juiciness, but also grippy tannins on the finish." Falstaff

"A dark and restrained wine. The nose focuses on forest floor and wild blackberries, with smoky depth. The palate is firm, with a noticeable tannic structure, refreshing acidity and a medium body. Slightly bitter-chocolaty finish." James Suckling

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"Bright straw yellow with green reflections. Compact on the nose, lots of fruit, blackcurrant, lemon and bergamot, with plenty of herbal spice behind it. Straightforward and precise on the palate, great grip, mouthwatering, salty, delicate melting, refreshing acidity, long, mineral final." Falstaff

"Remarkably pretty in the glass, the 2019 Fiore di Campo (Gold Label) is delicate and floral, as crushed rocks and lime zest are complemented by gingery spice. Round and pleasantly sweet upon entry, it cascades ripe orchard fruits across a core of bright acidity as a complementing hint of mint evolves toward the close. Candied citrus and a salty flourish contrast each other through the finale, while the 2019 maintains fantastic energy yet is also lightly structured. The balance here is stunning, and while enjoyable today, there's a bright future ahead of it all well." Vinous

"The wine has a soft texture that only Italian white wines from Friuli have. The special thing about the texture is that it feels creepingly full-bodied, but never heavy. In addition to the flavours of stone fruit and pastries, the wine has a lovely acidic freshness and salty mineral notes." Wine Advocate

Here, the Falanghina grape variety is redefined with impressive nuances and elegance at the highest level: Light straw yellow with golden reflections. Ripe herbal aromas, tonic, sweet lemon, grapefruit and apricot on the nose. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, with a delightful floral lift and energy that leads seamlessly into the long, complex finish with a savoury bite and pronounced minerality. A beautiful, distinctive single-vineyard Falanghina in a class of its own. SUPERIORE.DE

"Brilliant, intense straw yellow colour. Expressive on the nose with notes of mandarin, medlar, some white pepper and a hint of vanilla pod. Concentrated fruit on the palate, juicy and with invigorating acidity, harmonious and persistent." Falstaff

"The 2023 Via Del Campo is sweet and floral, with a mix of chamomile and candied lime and peach sorbet. The palate is crystalline and remarkably fresh, with green apple fruit reminiscent of citrus and juicy acidity. It finishes with admirable length and concentration, leaving a youthful tension and a hint of green melon that lingers on and on." Vinous