The Wine Advocate

"Twenty years in the wine business is nothing, but for me it is twenty years of my life. A life entirely dedicated to wine as a means of expression, and with the current vintage I have finally achieved the finesse I have been looking for for so long. Elegance, that is the word that describes Testamatta 2019. The 20th anniversary of Testamatta is a real milestone, the pinnacle of quality that I have been looking for in my Sangiovese since the first vintage in 2000. Testamatta 2019 is perfectly balanced with deep layers that show incredible complexity."

With these words, Bibi Graetz presented the latest vintage of his Testamatta, the fulfilment of this creative winemaker's dream. Bibi decided twenty years ago to set out from Fiesole on an extraordinary journey into the world of Tuscan wine - with the intention of striving for excellence by assembling plots of great quality, even if they are far apart. A "crazy", innovative, fascinating journey that has grown year after year.

And Testamatta means what describes this Bibi Graetz best: a smiling, creative and passionate person. The wine tells of the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines and speaks of stony soils and hillside vineyards.

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the estate's 5 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all grapes are picked at the perfect time of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed, with scents of rose petals that transition into ripe red to dried cherries and red currants. This is joined by aromas of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mix of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta 2019 is characterised by a lovely freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins leading into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"The 20 on the label tells of the 2019 anniversary vintage for Bibi Graetz. The Testamatta consists of pure Sangiovese and has a super delicate colour. Delicate, delicate and super light, it presents itself on the nose, very fragrant and floral, with fine, spicy notes of tobacco and herbal sweets. In the bulbous Hermitage glass of the Veritas series, it smells much fresher than in a Bordeaux goblet, a little tomato sauce and broth in the background. Superfine and fragrant, it opens with Pinot-like delicacy in the mouth. Very charming and delicate, juicy and ripe, with excellent balance. The tannins are slenderly arranged and slightly rough. Complex, idiosyncratic Sangiovese that is clearly leaner than a Chianti Classico Riserva or a Brunello di Montalcino." Weinwisser

"Sparkling ruby, luminous. Intense and appealing nose with lots of ripe plums, black cherry, plus some porcini mushrooms and dark olive paste. Powerful on the palate, crisp, precise fruit, juicy, lots of fine-grained tannin, long finish." Falstaff

"Smooth and sophisticated with polished tannin and a lovely seam of pure aromatics - sour cherry, subtle tobacco, and straw." Decanter

"A pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red." Wine Advocate

"Yet another fine year, however some wines in 2019 - although not Testamatta - lacked a little concentration. Relatively light in colour, it's at the other end of the density scale to the wines of the early 2000s. There are piquant raspberry and redcurrant aromas and both the nose and palate show admirable delicacy and restraint. Very elegant and pure, its fine acidity gives excellent length and ageing potential." Decanter

"Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025." James Suckling

Ginestra is a large and beautiful vineyard site in Monforte d'Alba, bathed in morning light and offering a panoramic view of the castle of Serralunga d'Alba. The flagship wine of the house with great personality and balance. The bouquet is multi-layered and multi-dimensional with dark purple, balsamic fruit on the one hand and impressive notes of spices, tar and tobacco on the other. In the glass, the Sori Ginestra is characterised by a pronounced, strong backbone of taut tannins and an acidity that leaves nothing to be desired for this cru in terms of structure, completeness and longevity. SUPERIORE.DE

"The Conterno Fantino 2020 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra has notes of perfumed oak spice, pine cones, liquorice root, pastis, root beer, plump cherry fruit, baked ripeness and wild mint on the finish. This is a generous, complex and well-structured Barolo. The oak impression is particularly strong at this young stage and the wine needs more time in the bottle." Wine Advocate

"Saturated with cherry, plum, iron, tar, menthol, tobacco and spice aromas and flavors, this powerful and complex red is defined by a vibrant structure, showing vivid acidity and energetic tannins. The finish brings nice closure as all of the components gather together." Wine Spectator

"The Barolo Ginestra 2020 Vigna Sorì Ginestra combines finesse with power, as can be the case with the best vineyards here. Crushed flowers, orange peel, spices, mint, white pepper and tobacco give it a remarkable aromatic presence. The 2020 starts light, then explodes in the middle of the palate and on the finish, showing remarkable structural depth and finesse." Vinous

"Generous oak spices are in great harmony with the rich fruit and agile structure of this classic, memorable Barolo. Tantalising aromas of cedar, cinnamon, iodine and sour cherry combine with warm red cherries, cranberries and chalky mineral notes on an appropriately tannic texture. Best from 2030." James Suckling

The top-quality Vigneto Erchi Riserva comes from the small vineyard of the same name, which has belonged to Fattoria Selvapiana since 1998. The owners spent a long time looking for a vineyard whose terroir impressively demonstrates the complexity of Sangiovese in the Rufina region, making this wine a high-calibre addition to the famous Selvapiana collection.

Compared to Bucerchiale, Vigneto Erchi is somewhat more red-fruity and combines its power with wonderful finesse. The well-tempered bouquet has precise and well-defined aromas of wild cherry and redcurrant, as well as hints of blue flowers and earthy notes. Initially restrained on the palate, it gains volume and race with further aeration. Maturation in French oak provides a structure and depth that will give it a long life. Everything is just right here, the house's new top Sangiovese has found its place. SUPERIORE.DE

"The Selvapiana 2018 Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Erchi is drinking beautifully right now, with a little hint of tertiary definition that goes a long way to add complexity. There is dried blackcurrant, spice, tobacco, licorice and a hint of smoked meat on this 100% Sangiovese. It reveals a mid-weight texture with an open-knit quality of tannins." Wine Advocate

"Purity of cherries and crushed stones on the nose. Medium to full body, racy tannins and a mineral, crisp finish. Nice structure, if a little austere now. Better from 2024." James Suckling

"Fattoria Selvapiana, one of the region's top producers, has described its 5-hectare Vigna Erchi as iron-rich soil in comparison to its legendary Bucerchiale vineyard. Exceptional elegance and a silky smoothness complement the bold character of the dark fruit. Although aged for 18 months in French barriques, there is no hint of oak on the palate, only its influence. The wine is a classic example of power and finesse, invigorating freshness and great length. The tannins remain polished and unobtrusive, even if you keep the wine in your mouth. It is a youthful wine, but its impeccable balance suggests a long life and glorious evolution." Decanter

The owner and winemaker Alessandro Mori describes himself as a "naturalista". His wines ferment spontaneously with autochthonous grape varieties and age for a long time in large old oak barrels. He lets the natural temperatures of the cellar control the refinement of the wine and uses minimal sulphur throughout. In addition to all its characteristic floral scents of roses and violets, Il Marroneto's 2018 is positively spicy with a peppery, juniper note. On the palate, it is delicately woven while offering deep flavours and good length. Clean and bright, with distinct notes of rosehip and raspberry, while refined tannins sneak up with textured chalkiness. SUPERIORE.DE

"Exciting nose with hints of freshly picked cherries, blackcurrant, tobacco, cardamom as well as Mediterranean spices and flowers. In the mouth again very gripping,
very own, exciting style, completely focused on freshness and pure-toned crispness, shows itself grippy and delicate with juicy fruit and fine spice. Must mature." Weinwisser

"Bright, medium dense ruby garnet. Appealing nose with notes of cranberries, goji berries and juicy fresh cherries. Lots of crisp fruit on the attack, unfolds very smoothly, fine sweet melt, raspberry on the final." Falstaff

"Brilliant, concentrated ruby red. Refined but still somewhat closed on the nose with spicy and mineral hints. Lots of appeal on the palate with beautiful, juicy, vibrant and concentrated cherry and raspberry fruit and hints of fruitcake. Lots of firm tannins that are still a little astringent and overpower the fruit. Long and layered finish, but still a little embryonic." Jancis Robinson

"Fresh, red fruit character with cherries and red plums and hints of gunpowder, coffee beans, spices and dried orange peel. Medium to full-bodied with firm tannins and a smooth, velvety fruit core on the mid palate. Lingering mineral note on the finish. Best after 2024." James Suckling

"Il Marroneto's 2018 Brunello embodies elegance, lightness and grace without being banal or superficial. Harvested on 5 October, it has a sweet core of red berries that provides a backdrop for cinnamon stick, sarsaparilla and violet accents to unfold. The ripe tannins are fine-grained and enveloping as the wine reaches accessible depths, and the appetising acidity begs for another sip - but not before the leisurely finish unfolds with spices and raspberries. A seamless symphony that reflects Alessandro Mori's unhurried, unforced approach to winemaking. As tempting as this wine is now, a little more patience will be rewarded." Decanter

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino has a charisma that makes it an absolute delight. Sweet exotic spices meet dried black cherries, dusty flowers and a hint of cloves. It is a pure delight on the palate, showing both opulent fruit and total balance and sophistication, while the sour berries are given a bracing lift by the juicy acidity. The 2018 leaves no stone unturned, rejuvenating with rounded tannins and lingering on the palate for up to a minute with a bracing burst of citrus, nuances of sweet rose and liquorice. This wine is so beautiful already, but it also has the balanced structure to age beautifully, something you don't find in many Brunellos of this vintage. What a treasure." Vinous

"The Il Marroneto 2018 Brunello di Montalcino from Alessandro Mori opens with a spicy bouquet with notes of caraway and white pepper that seamlessly transition into bright cherries, blueberries and cassis. The trick with this wine is balance, as neither side is stronger than the other. More importantly, this Brunello still has life and vibrant energy. Precisely because this bottle tastes so good now, I see little reason to wait any longer." Wine Advocate

"All the richness of Il Marroneto's raw materials in this impeccable version of Brunello. Blueberry jam on the nose, then notes of cinnamon, carob and marjoram. Juicy, spicy tannins on the palate and a fruity finish." Luca Gardini

"The nose seems like a dreamy island getaway, with passion fruit for breakfast, prickly pear cocktails by the pool, violets on the dinner table, and rosewater candy waiting on the nightstand. The palate brings candied cherries and strawberries, with continued rosiness bleeding into a citrusy, spicy finish. The acidity sparks off sophisticated tannins. This wine is poised and elegant, yet also exciting." Wine Enthusiast

Brunello di Montalcino Gli Angeli Riserva 2018 is stunningly beautiful. Its seductive presentation beguiles with rich dark fruits, sweet mint, spice and a grounding hint of floral undergrowth. Its textures are seamless, gliding over a core of fresh, bright acids that flank its black cherry and redcurrant flavours. Notes of liquorice, tobacco and sweet herbs linger long over a gentle layer of fine tannin. It has a juiciness, finesse and structure that will give it a long life. SUPERIORE.DE

"Dense, serious, finely characterised bouquet. Juicy palate, intense, polished tannins, supple, very stylish, coherent Riserva, polished, cherry, floral notes." Weinwisser

"Needs a little time to get going, then notes of cherry blossom and leather beguile; elegant structure with perfectly integrated acidity, tightly woven tannins, multi-layered finish with flavours of dried flowers, berries and truffles." Vinum

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gli Angeli is dark and rich with a bouquet of plum sauce, Baker's chocolate and sweet sage. It feels seamlessly silky, with a plush wave of ripe red and darker black fruits swirling over a core of savoury minerals and exotic spices. A hint of spiced orange adds a pleasant tension, while a bitter bite of tannins lingers." Vinous

"The La Gerla 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva gli Angeli shows warm vintage characteristics with baked fruit and plums. These impressions of ripe fruit blend well with the medium-bodied texture of the wine. Only 3,775 bottles were produced." Wine Advocate

"This red is rich and generous for the vintage, offering flavours of cherry, plum and rose with light accents of earth and dusty herbs. Light tannins and lively acidity support it, and it finishes gracefully." Wine Spectator

"Subtle aromas of red cherries, pepper, leather and cocoa powder wrapped in fresh violets. Firm attack with extracted, chalky tannins infused with cherries, full body and refreshing acidity. Spicy, fruity finish." James Suckling

When you hear the story of the effort that went into the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine people of Fèlsina are absolutely crazy. It took them two years to remove the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to virtually abandon this noble site. But it is thanks to the ambitious Giovanni Poggiali that this spectacular vineyard (Vigneto Colonia) became what it is today. It has reddish-brown soils, is rich in magnesium and iron, and is thus quite different from all other Fèlsina sites.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is a wine of enormous beauty and depth. Dark ruby in the glass, it smells expressively mineral and pure, with aromas of dark cherry and blackcurrant. Mineral and graphite aromas and the simply terrific focus on the Sangiovese grape make it an incomparable masterpiece. On the palate, it is extremely well-balanced and elegant with optimally integrated wood - it is immediately clear that another top wine of the house has been created that is more than a match for the Fontalloro. Fortunately for those who can taste it, there are only 3,000 bottles per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

"Superb bouquet with notes of raspberries, rose hips, also sandalwood; juicy on the palate, with powdery tannin, perfectly integrated acidity, shows depth and style into the jam finish. Great wine that can age for some more time." Vinum

"Sparkling, rich ruby red. Very intense and clearly marked nose, full of wild raspberries and blackberries, behind it cardamom, exciting. Substantial and dense in attack and course, opens up in lots of pithy tannin, rich, dark berry fruit, in the final emphatically earthy notes, after red beet and cocoa." Falstaff

"Lustrous ruby with orange tinges. Gorgeous nose of sour cherry and blackberry with blood-orange hints and notes of new oak all perfectly tied together. Focused and a little vibrant on the palate, elegant and succulent with long, coating tannins. Transparent finish." Jancis Robinson

"Sweet berries and dried flowers on the nose with sage and lavender. Medium-to full-bodied with chewy tannins, yet these are polished and intense. Very structured and solid. Needs cellar time. Try after 2023." James Suckling

"I prefer this wine to Fèlsina's top-shelf Fontalloro. The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is irresistibly angular and tight, opening a profound view onto what makes Sangiovese so expressive and unique, especially when planted in the right territories. The bouquet is savory and almost sanguine with iron ore, rusty nail and baked clay. But there's plenty of fruit as well, in the form of wild berry and black cherry, that adds to the dimension and dynamic freshness of the mouthfeel. Give this wine time to soften in the bottle." Wine Advocate

"The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is fascinating to taste next to the Rancia, as the two parcels are adjacent. Rich and substantial in the glass, Colonia is textured and ample, qualities that become increasingly apparent over time. Rugged, rocky terrain seems to amplify power, explosive verticality and acidity." Vinous

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Beautiful, fresh flavours of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon shrub. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that give the wine brightness and energy. It definitely follows the new wave of crisp, lively Tuscan Sangiovese that emphasise drinkability and transparency." James Suckling

"The 2020 Rosso Testamatta is dusty and floral in the glass, with flint, peppery herbs and tart raspberry. It is refined and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried by a seamless, silky texture. Though structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed, while a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a treasure." Vinous

"Bibi Graetz has been tinkering with his recipe for this wine for a long time, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The Testamatta 2020 is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, prioritising cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern sites). In the wake of climate change and in search of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from an airy, high-altitude site) gives Testamatta its wonderful clarity, sharpness and sublime bouquet. The result is a lively, transparent and fresh wine, both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transition and a wine to watch." Wine Advocate

"Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a beautiful fragrance and expression. The fine tannins give the wine a creamy, chalky flavour with bright, juicy strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You can also sense the savoury side, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herbs counterbalancing the fruit and high acidity. I admire the finesse here, the sharp fruit gives the energy and the chalky texture the layers. It feels well controlled, powerful yet with balance. It doesn't have as much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuances of flavour are exciting and engaging, and it has a long, serene finish. A contemplative wine that leaves you wanting more and more. Produced in the new winery facilities in Fiesole. The grapes come from the six best vineyards: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena, each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to reach the perfect ripening points." Decanter

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified.

The grapes are harvest exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Straw yellow with golden reflections. Complex bouquet of white pineapple, apple, pear and kiwi, fine notes of mussel shell. Full-bodied, multi-layered and fleshy on the palate, always with a very precise and energetic mouthfeel, pleasant freshness and a mineral flavour. The endlessly long finish has salty layers, fine, barely perceptible tannins and notes of white pepper. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Luminous straw. A gorgeous, perfumed nose with garden herbs and basil and chalk and just a hint of mint? Amazing precision, and the fruit is right on the edge before fading into orange or tangerine. Fine citric palate. Very focused, but taut and viscous and a little restrained. Very precise and long." Jancis Robinson

"The Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta Bianco is fresh in character and linear in terms of its aromatic delivery. It helps that one-third of the wine goes through stainless steel, with the rest in neutral oak. This approach allows you to better appreciate aromas of fresh peach, white plumeria flower, persimmon, salty minimality and iodine. It's also worth noting that the Testamatta sources much of its fruit from north-facing slopes. Those cooler conditions certainly help in a hot vintage like 2022." Wine Advocate

"Lots of lemon curd, honeysuckle, white peach, white stone and other flowers. Underneath it all, some blanched almonds and sea breeze. Also a hint of seaweed. Full-bodied and multi-layered with pronounced flavours of dried lemons and apples. Oyster shells. Some phenols produced by the wind during the growing season." James Suckling

Sweet roses, red berries, flowers, mint and orange peel - all this can be found in this very well-balanced Brunello. It has a well-proportioned fruit centre, lovely tannins and a fabulous overall balance. SUPERIORE.DE

"Intriguing nose of black cherries and leather; consistent in the mouth, the tannins fine-grained, the final compact with fine fruit nuances." Vinum

"Bright, radiant ruby red colour. Precise nose of ripe raspberries, underpinned by subtle sweet spices, elderberry, mint. On the palate with great juiciness and tightly woven tannins, polished, radiant in the fruit, also savoury in the pressure, fiery finish." Falstaff

"Concentrated medium ruby red colour. Slumbering nose that gains depth with aeration. Supple, juicy fruit with loads of gravelly tannins. Lots of juice and perfumed fruit on the finish, but still embryonic and a little tannic, but really well balanced and complex, textural and tactile on the finish." Jancis Robinson

"Roasted herbs, wild cherries, thyme and dried mushrooms on the nose. Medium to full body with silky but firm tannins supporting supple and fresh layers. Excellent length with a deliciously savoury character." James Suckling

"Masses of crushed cherries and cloves give way to nuances of spiced citrus peel and cedar as the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life in the glass. On the palate, it is round and supple, with a balanced inner sweetness that contrasts with the mineral acids and tart forest fruits. The grippy tannins rise towards the finish but fail to slow the 2018's momentum, while notes of salted liquorice linger under a hint of dried roses. This is a deep and characterful rendition of Brunello from Col d'Orcia, but you need patience to discover all its charms." Vinous

"Beautifully weighted, it is full yet agile with enough stuffing to carry it over the next decade. Above all, it emphasises the freshness of the vintage: the aromas unfold slowly but are very floral, with cherry and thyme blossom lifted by traces of pepper. The palate is dominated by crunchy red plums and juicy cherries, with the youthful, grippy tannins needing a little time to give way." Decanter

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is a certified organic wine with dark fruit, bold cherry, earthy notes and hints of black olive or scorched earth. The wine is generous and round in terms of mouthfeel with a streamlined mid-palate and plenty of Sangiovese acidity to keep things lively and fresh. The tannins are well integrated and silky." Wine Advocate

"This promising Brunello is characterised by beautiful aromas and flavours of cherries, strawberries, currants and flowers. Elegant and supple at the beginning, the dense tannic structure emerges, giving the long finish a different character. It reveals notes of wild herbs and minerals that give it depth." Wine Spectator

"This Brunello of impeccable balance is another essential characteristic of the Montalcino region. Aromas of red cherries, nutmeg and eucalyptus on the nose. Spicy tannins on the palate, taut and crisp, juicy and long-lasting." Luca Gardini

"The nose is warm, dry and fruity, with aromas of cranberry, cherry, strawberry and orange peel wafting above pennies jingling in the background. On the palate, rose petals accentuate the fruitiness, while the tannins are polished but not slippery, like expensive leather. A classic luxury experience." Wine Enthusiast

Maternigo means "mother's land" and is also the name of one of the Tedeschi family's vineyards. The vineyards cover around 33 hectares in two municipalities, Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto. The new Cru-Amarone Riserva Maternigo is only produced in the best years and its grapes come exclusively from the Barila vineyard. This single vineyard was selected after careful zoning and characterisation of the soil, which is characterised by very low vigour and consequently produces grapes rich in structure.

This gives it its own complex and aromatic character, which is characterised by a high concentration of natural aromatic components in the grapes. This complexity creates an intense bouquet of red fruits and Mediterranean flowers. These notes are echoed on the palate, along with subtle hints of eucalyptus, which give the wine freshness and at the same time hints of sweet spices. The impressive result is an elegant wine with great structure and exciting development potential - and an unmistakable sensory experience. SUPERIORE.DE

"Dark, bright, rich ruby red colour. Noble and clear on the nose, of ripe, rich cherries, red peach, rosehips and wild berry mousse, with fine spicy components on the finish. Full-bodied and dense on the palate, opens rich and with dark berry fruit components, juicy tannin envelops the fine melting, ends long in the final with fine pressure on elderberry syrup." Falstaff

"The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva Maternigo is ashy and intense, with tobacco giving way to peppery herbs, dried cherries and dark chocolate. It feels velvety-smooth and glycerin-like, with a dense wave of ripe red fruit and sweet spice carried by salty minerals and vibrant acids. It leaves a hint of rich sweet fruit along with violet and lavender tones as it finishes lightly textured. The 2016 took some time to develop in the glass, but it really shows the magic of the vintage. Bravo." Vinous

"Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella from the Barila vineyard, grape harvest, followed by long fermentation and maceration, then 48 months in Slavonian oak, a wine with a beautiful olfactory impact, notes of blackcurrant, nuances of wild mint and nutmeg, spicy attack, spicy finish." Luca Gardini

"This wine exemplifies the unique world that Amarone lives in as a wine. It is both very powerful and elegant at the same time. The nose is reserved at first, showing a mixture of black currant, plum and raspberry. The wine then shifts gears highlighting the bitter-chocolate notes and chalky minerality that come from this unique single vineyard, Barila. The bottling has firm tannins and vibrant acidity, giving the wine seriousness and demanding it be lost in the cellar for some time." Wine Enthusiast

"It's very restrained on the nose, with a dense package of baked red cherry flavours and a bright mineral, almost wet stone character. Mediterranean herbs too. Full-bodied palate that is back under control, but there is a dense package of firm, fine tannins, dried fruit and spice waiting to burst out. It's hard to believe this wine is only 17% alcohol, it's so well constructed. It will be superb in a year or two and beyond if you can resist the temptation now. Best from 2023 onwards." James Suckling

"Spicy, woody black cherry, blueberry jam and coffee scents are joined by deep, rich, earthy and almost-jammy flavours, with cocoa and damson. Round and extremely fresh with a persistent finish, this is by no means a shrinking violet yet has the balance to match its considerable concentration and heft." Decanter

Bright, rich ruby red colour. Fine, elegant bouquet with fruity aromas, notes of coffee and complex spice flavours. The flavour is long-lasting, the acidity in perfect balance with the tannins and body. A wine with great tension and personality, suitable for long ageing, but also a delight in its youth. SUPERIORE.DE

"Wonderfully multi-layered, rather cool bouquet with the mineral notes that are often perceived here, reminiscent of iron, very distinguished, noble fruit with à point ripe wild berry flavours, noble cherries, cassis and cranberries. Fine and elegant on the palate, very precisely contoured, super elaborate tannins that cling almost perfectly to the body like a tailor-made dress, linear with a fine-radiant acid freshness that penetrates the palate. This is mega! This puts Grattamacco right up there with the region's superstars and secures it a permanent place on the podium." Weinwisser

"Elegant and straightforward in profile, this red wine offers aromas and flavours of cherries, blackcurrants, minerals, earth and Mediterranean scrub. There's fine tension and freshness, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Needs time." Wine Spectator

"Timeless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese: Plump bouquet of blueberry jam and leather; juicy on the palate, the acidity and crumbly tannins in harmony, soft and supple and yet with substance the fruity-balsamic finish, also mineral nuances. A classic that also impresses in this vintage." Vinum

"Aromatic nose of blackcurrants, berries and cherries, along with a hint of flowers and gentle oak. Full-bodied with a very pure and intense fruit that runs through the slightly firm tannins and gives a long, only slightly rubbing finish. From organically grown grapes. An elegant, well-structured blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Drinkable now, but better from 2024." James Suckling

"Restrained cassis and Mediterranean herb scents are allied to fresher red fruits and a floral touch. It's very well composed, demonstrating an elegant and juicy style with great integration of oak and youthful, chewy fruit. A Bolgheri to wait for – this is intended for the long haul." Decanter

"The 2020 tastes balanced and long with even more tannin structure to hold it firmly together. This is an iconic blend." Wine Advocate

"The 2020 Grattamacco is an outstanding wine, dark, lively and nuanced to the core. Black fruits, lavender, spices, leather, menthol and dried herbs give the 2020 plenty of character and complexity. The 2020 is deep, but also wonderfully translucent and one of the finest Grattamaccos I can remember tasting. It has incredible depth and resonance, not to mention a lot of personality." Vinous

"One of the highlights of Bolgheri, from a now mythological vineyard. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Blackberries on the nose, menthol, pink pepper and citrus notes on the finish. Taut on the palate with tannins that are balanced by a fresh, savoury component. Fruity finish, depth." Luca Gardini

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"For the wines of Bibi Graetz, 2021 is one of the most convincing vintages to date. The Testamatta is once again a very independent, single-varietal Sangiovese with a light, delicate colour. Deep, very fragrant and seductive, the characterful bouquet then develops in a very clear manner. Juicy and transparent on the palate, long and profoundly multi-faceted, very harmonious and polished, it has a wiry, energetic acidity that gives it length and complexity. Its filigree structure is rich in finesse and expansive, slightly brittle, with a lot of Sangiovese character." Weinwisser

"Bright ruby red colour with a sparkling core. Youthful and fresh on the nose, floral, violets and fresh cherries, light pepper spice and a vegetal touch. Juicy on the palate, with present acidity, plus clear fruit in the centre and a juicy finish." Falstaff

"Brilliant and only medium ruby red in colour. Restrained nose of red fruits with exotic spice notes and a hint of soya. Very fine, still very closed and very fresh. Fairly firm tannins, which are still a little bitter at the moment, but will undoubtedly develop with further ageing. Cranberries on the finish and very elegant, although still tannic at the moment." Jancis Robinson

"The 2021 Testamatta blossoms with an array of wild strawberry, rose petal and dusty sage, yet is very understated and refined. It is silky to the core, with an elegant wave of ripe red and blue fruits flowing over a stream of fresh acidity. The wine finishes with a palpable mineral note and a crisp concentration of wild berries, while a hint of liquorice fades amidst a gentle tannin. The ongoing pursuit of purity at Bibi Graetz is on full display here." Vinous

"A pure, resonant red, with strawberry, cherry, rose, wild thyme, black pepper and mineral aromas and flavors. Though taut and linear now, this offers a center of ripe fruit, terrific balance and a long aftertaste of fruit, herb and mineral notes." Wine Spectator

"The nose starts light and sweet with aromas of vanilla and cedar before becoming richer with notes of cherries and candied oranges. On the palate, an undertone of fresh earth blossoms under a starry sky of cherries and strawberries. Silky tannins invite you to linger now, while lively acidity suggests you should come back for more fun in a few years." Wine Enthusiast

"The 2021 Testamatta is a Sangiovese that comes from different vineyards with different cool microclimates. The ideal is to emphasise the transparency and fragility of the variety. The fruit from the Olmo vineyard plays a major role and "gives this wine a strong character", says Bibi. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violets, roses, forest green and candied orange peel. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives the wine a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are easy to handle and oak ageing is kept to an elegant minimum. The vinification is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and radiant." Wine Advocate

"Beautifully fragrant on the nose, delicately perfumed and inviting with subtle wildflower scents, red and black berries and sweet spices. Chalky and powdery tannins support the super bright acidity that gives this wine such a sharp, exciting and vibrant expression. The tannins are very fine but have a savoury note that maintains interest and allows the acidity and bright fruit flavours to shine through. Beautifully delineated and expressed, elegant, refined, utterly beguiling yet with layers of flavour and intensity and such a long finish. It is extremely drinkable, and that is quite an achievement at this young stage. Well crafted, balanced and pleasant with a hint of heat and spice on the finish. Really wonderful and totally charming." Decanter

"Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense, linear tannins that have an ultra-fine texture. It is fresh and savoury, bright and concentrated. Mineral and crisp. The pH is 3.4, emphasising the strength of the acidity. Crisp. Salty. So delicious now, but it will age incredibly well." James Suckling

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Straw yellow with golden reflections. A cooler vintage that breaks the cycle of hot vintages. A pure, fresh and lively bouquet of white grapefruit, fennel and lemon juice. On the palate, there is a great natural citrus acidity, but also a great fullness - like a volcano of freshness that shoots up vertically, with all the depth underneath. A gentle spiciness on the finish. This is the freshest vintage to date, combined with a great juiciness. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, pale straw yellow colour. Slightly restrained at the start, aromas of acacia honey, butter and light caramel. Full-bodied on the palate, juicy fruit on the mid-palate, savoury, somewhat phenolic on the final." Falstaff

"This 100% Ansonica, which comes from vineyards on the island of Giglio, offers complex notes of lemon leaves, apricots, demerara sugar, crushed apples and some hints of leek. On the palate, it is intense and tangy, with a pleasant texture and citrus notes of pink grapefruit and lemon, finishing with apricot and floral notes. A really beautiful white wine that has a lot to offer." Decanter

"The 2023 Testamatta Bianco opens with a saturated, golden yellow colour and dense aromas of peach pie, salty minerality and spicy saffron. After fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels, with frequent stirring of the lees to create a creamy finish." Wine Advocate

"Complex flavours of white pears, yellow plums and light mangoes with hints of minerals and fresh flowers. Medium to full-bodied with a dense mid palate and integrated phenols that give it grace and sophistication." James Suckling

An exotic blend of sweet smoke and cloves gives way to dusty black cherries and a hint of sour citrus fruit as the 2019 vintage unfolds in the glass. After a while, there are hints of musk and floral undergrowth. Pure elegance on the palate, delicate and silky, but also with a core of salty minerals that adds unexpected depth to the vibrant flavours of tart wild berries and spices. Finishes with incredible persistence but also composure, structured yet primary, just as it should be at this young stage. The higher altitudes and almost minimalist winemaking at Le Potazzine have helped to produce one of the most balanced and interesting wines of the 2019 top vintage for us. SUPERIORE.DE

"Medium, shiny ruby red colour with a slightly lighter rim. Elegant and sweetish fruity notes of raspberries, strawberries and cherries on the nose, some red rose petals and a hint of liquorice, with a thyme background. Very balanced on the palate with beautiful acidity and fine tannins, very juicy on the final." Falstaff

"Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Still quite tight and backward on the nose with shy cherry spiked with minerally notes. Tightly knit palate with cherry framed by a big layer of firm, finely ground tannins that cling to the inside of the cheeks. Elegant and long and still embryonic." Jancis Robinson

"Expressive red-fruit and floral notes, followed by cloves and a touch of fresh mint leaves. Medium-bodied with firm and sturdy tannins. Precise and compact on the palate. Give it more time to soften." James Suckling

"Bright and pure, featuring strawberry, cherry, rose, mineral and wild herb flavors. This straddles the line between delicate, elegant and electric, with vivid acidity and resonant tannins. Offers superb harmony and a lingering aftertaste of red fruit." Wine Spectator

"The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino delivers all the goods. The bouquet opens to dried cranberry, redcurrant, rosemary flower and light spice. The palate is streamlined and elegant, concluding with powdery tannins." Wine Advocate

"Le Potazzine’s Brunello 2019 exhibits all the vintage’s signature fragrance. Heady cherry blossom, freesia and violet entice immediately while promising more to come. Pure and delineated, the palate offers almost a plushness of strawberry and red cherry, then long, suede-like tannins arrive in waves, never drowning out the fruit. Dense yet spacious with a sophisticated texture, this needs more time." Decanter

"The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is stunning and unmissable from the first sip. It combines an array of dried flowers with autumnal spices, cherries with cedar and cloves in a way that I find very appealing. On the palate, it has a texture of pure silk accompanied by bright acidity, while deep wild berries and mineral notes unfold towards the end. The 2019 lingers incredibly long, leaving a hint of primary concentration intermingled with grippy tannins and liquorice nuances, while retaining an airy freshness. The combination of house style and vintage character is unique. It will take a lot of willpower not to pick up the 2019 long enough to see it mature properly. Captivating." Vinous

"Intense and clean aromas reminiscent of blackberries, floral notes of peonies and wild roses with a finish of eucalyptus and rhubarb. Great balance and finesse on the palate, crisp and fresh drinkability, elegant and savoury tannins, with a return of chinotto and basil." Luca Gardini

Gabbro is the essence of Montepeloso's finest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the vines are over 40 years old. Impressively complex bouquet of dark fruits, smoke and grilled vegetables. Powerful and muscular on the palate, revealing its pedigree and great class. Exquisite, complex, nuanced, persistent, long ... Gabbro really does offer everything you need for an unforgettable wine experience at world-class Cabernet level. Only 2,500 bottles were produced. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, deep dark ruby colour. Opens with fine notes of mint, some chocolate, fresh dark currant. Firm and gripping tannins on the palate, good tension, lots of pressure on the final." Falstaff

"The 2020 Gabbro is great. Montepeloso's bold Cabernet Sauvignon delivers tons of varietal character and savoury intensity with less opulence than most years. Dark fruit leather, liquorice, smoke, tobacco and incense lead into a sombre finish. The tannins are also powerful here." Vinous

"A rich and juicy red wine with plum and chocolate flavours. Also some fresh sage. It is full and complex, but remains bright and lively. A hint of herbs and dark fruit at the end, as well as earth." James Suckling

"The Gabbro 2020 (made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is ripe, rich and smooth. This wine pushes the boundaries in all directions (including a hefty 15% alcohol content). Black fruits and baked plums hide hints of dried herbs or rosemary, but the texture of the wine is what ultimately sets this hot vintage apart." Wine Advocate

The vineyard of the same name has been producing a very balanced Brunello for years. Le Lucère 2018 delights us with its attractive bouquet of wild berries, cinnamon and damp undergrowth. Fine tannins, an invigorating acid wire and a supple texture. As it progresses, hints of citrus, minerals and herbs. A complex and very convincing wine that will continue to grow in the coming years. SUPERIORE.DE

"This is a medium to full-bodied Sangiovese with dark and spicy tones that turn to dark fruit and plum. The San Filippo 2018 Brunello di Montalcino le Lucére shows abundant aromas of sour cherry and dried raspberry, giving the wine a bright first impression. After a short time, a second wave of toasted aromas and spices comes in. The finish is soft, lean and polished." Wine Advocate

"A supple, delicate version that evokes flavours of cherry, liquorice, white pepper, earth and rosehip. Intense and balanced, with a gauzy texture that builds to a chalky feel on the finish." Wine Spectator

"Already complex and open, with aromas of slate, dried rosemary, grilled sage, lemon peel, sour cherries and cardamom. Smooth and full-bodied with supple and fine tannins. I like the undertones of olive pits and herbs. Strong, mineral finish. Taste after 2025." James Suckling

"La Lucère was planted in 1997 and is surrounded by forest on three sides. The windy, east-facing site is relatively cool and is always the last of the vineyard to be harvested. The 2018, which was aged in lightly toasted barriques and tonneaux, is the most elegant and effortlessly balanced wine I have tasted from this estate. It opens with attractive scents of cinnamon, violets and rosemary and has an impressive concentration of wild berry flavours, but is not heavy. The integrated acidity gives the wine the right support, and the tannins are long and fine, adding texture and shape. The best is yet to come." Decanter

"Le Lucére, the usual expression of the substance inherent in the wines of San Filippo, in a vintage that shows a beautiful opulence. Notes of Vignola cherries on the nose, hints of rhubarb and undergrowth, with a finish of wild mint. Juicy tannins in the mouth, with a return of fruit and undergrowth." Luca Gardini

Impressive, very complex aroma of tar, smoke, liquorice, scorched earth, dark fruits and pebbles. With some aeration, dark, rich red fruits, exotic spices and smoked bacon. Very virile, dark and muscular on the palate, with an exciting contrast of austerity and extract sweetness. The opulence and intensity of the flavours and the still monumental tannins give an idea of what a great red with a strong personality is maturing here in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

"The Conterno Fantino 2020 Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped has aromas of brandied cherries, Luxardo cherry liqueur, oak toast, liquorice and dark rye. This Barolo is relatively dense in texture, with good intensity, chalky tannins and enough fruit to stand up to the tannins. The fruit comes from a one-hectare site with a combination of sand, silt and clay." Wine Advocate

"Well-defined flavors of cherry, raspberry, rose and wild herbs are the hallmarks of this elegant yet firmly structured red. There's a mineral undercurrent and a crisp, persistent aftertaste." Wine Spectator

"This exceptional wine is deep and sombre, packed with mineral, floral and savoury notes that will blossom with time. It shows iron, iodine and rose petals on the nose, then supple tannins wrap around cranberry, bitter orange and sour cherry. Best from 2028." James Suckling

"The 2020 Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped is the most powerful and tannic of these wines, but it retains the mid-weight signature of the vintage and the more nuanced style that is the norm at Conterno-Fantino these days. On the palate, the 2020 is dark, lush and broad, offering a beguiling mix of dark fruits, leather, tobacco, incense, liquorice and dried herbs. The 2020 is a complex, dynamic wine that is constantly changing in the glass. It should offer exceptional drinking pleasure over the next 15-20 years. This is a classic Mosconi." Vinous

Chardonnay Vigna San Francesco is luxurious and rich as it moves along the lines of sophistication: ginger spice, crushed oyster shells, Italian buttercream and citrus fruits make up its seductive bouquet. On the palate, it conveys a sense of opulence but also harmony, combining a silky, medium-bodied texture with mineral fruits and pretty floral nuances. An interplay of sweet and sour that lasts until the final, while savoury green citrus fruits and a hint of Granny Smith apple slowly fade away. A wonderful Sicilian Chardonnay that perfectly combines the sophistication of the international grape variety with the charm of the Mediterranean climate. SUPERIORE.DE

"Aromas of grilled pineapple, hawthorn, dried lemon, flint, praline and a hint of burnt caramel. Long and delicious, with a full body and a creamy, subtly smoky palate, balanced by a fine minerality and bright acidity." James Suckling

"The 2020 Sicilia Chardonnay Vigna San Francesco shows a medium fruit weight with creamy notes of peach, poached pear and crushed limestone. This is a promising wine for the dinner table." Wine Advocate

"The 2020 Chardonnay Vigna San Francesco is remarkably pretty. It warms in the glass, revealing sweet white flowers and honeysuckle that complement young peaches and vanilla pods. It's round and supple, almost oily in texture, contrasted by a mix of lemony citrus with tropical melon and pineapple, all energised by a core of saline acidity. The 2020 finishes long yet remarkably fresh with a tart concentration of citrus tickling the cheeks as the sweet spice notes fade. The Vigna San Francesco is a plea for Italian, or more precisely, Sicilian Chardonnay. It is simply stunning." Vinous

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, bright ruby colour. Initially somewhat restrained, then shows notes of dark chocolate, dark cherry, lots of blackberry, some plum. Juicy attack and finish, very good tension, opens up with fine-meshed tannins, long final." Falstaff

"The 2022 Testamatta Rosso was made from the fruit of all the north-facing vineyards and is intended to showcase the power of Sangiovese. In fact, many parcels were recently removed from the blend to focus on fruit concentration and elegance. This wine is packed with dense berry fruit, blueberries, spice and soft earth. Bright, acidic freshness gives the Sangiovese backbone." Wine Advocate

"It shows dusty, earthy notes, creamy dark cherries, green olives and spices on a vertical framework with strong salinity. It is precise and energetic, balanced and balletic, with a beautiful vibrancy of tangy raspberry, cherry, wild herbs and a hint of plum." Decanter

"The purity of the fruit is so impressive, with al dente fruit character of sliced cherries, cranberries and citrus melding together beautifully. It is medium to full-bodied and growing on the palate, with firm and layered tannins and a long, intense finish. It needs another three to four years to refine, but is already very enticing. Great beauty. Irresistible now, but best after 2027." James Suckling