wine classics

G.D. Vajra's Ravera (whose site straddles the municipalities of Novello and Barolo) is always the most angular, powerful and vertical of their collection. It comes from soils with clay and sandstone at 320 to 340 metres above sea level. This is the ideal place for wines that show both power and elegance. The tannins are sweet, but every fibre of the backbone is dense and firm. Red and purple fruits with liquorice, tar and white truffle are neatly packed here, revealing themselves only gradually but then with beautiful precision and straightforwardness. The final has a wonderfully long reverberation, great! SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, radiant ruby red with a lightening rim. Expressive on the nose, of wild berries, elderberries, also floral, then eucalyptus, plus noble spice, of black tea on the final. On the palate compact, juicy, with dense tannin, comes in several layers, energetic, salty in the final." Falstaff

"Lustrous mid ruby. Subtle, fragrant and concentrated and with fantastic depth and earthy minerally notes. Cherry and raspberry fruit with a hint of damson. Richly tannic adding chew to the juicy elegant fruit. On the finish, quite a bit of tannins that still need to integrate into the very long fruit finish. Compact and pithy." Jancis Robinson

"High-toned vanilla notes tie in with blue fruit purity. Rich and weighty with layers of fresh strawberries, raspberries, dried tobaccos, leather and earthy notes on the palate." Decanter

"This focused, fragrant red offers aromas of woodland berry, new leather, wild herb and pipe tobacco. The linear palate exhibits dried cherry, mocha and toasted nut set against close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish." Wine Enthusiast

"Rich, ripe mixed berries and perfumed bark on the nose. Medium-to full-bodied with some lightly firm tannin giving support to the fruit. Has a promising core. Give it a while to broaden out." James Suckling

"The 2018 Barolo Ravera is a powerful, tightly wound wine. Gravel, smoke, cured meats, spice, leather, tobacco and menthol emerge, but only with quite a bit of reticence. This deceptively mid-weight Barolo has a good bit of brawn." Vinous

"Seamlessly stitched together, the G.D. Vajra 2018 Barolo Ravera reveals tight layering and smooth texture. Fruit comes from an amphitheater of vines with Tortoniana epoch sandstone clay that is typical of parts of Barolo and Novello. What stands out here is the mineral character of the wine. It frames a dark core of plum, dark cherry and soft spice." Wine Advocate

Medium, radiant ruby red. Complex nose of sweet and cedar wood, paired with Mediterranean maquis and delicate sweet cherry. In the mouth, balsamic notes, very finely woven tannins and a wonderful complexity that envelops the juicy fruit core and gives the wine an impressive depth and length. The elegance is also very impressive and will certainly increase with further maturity. SUPERIORE.DE

"Deep aromas of cherries and flowers; compact construction, the tannins racy and well integrated, beautiful melt and polish and of great elegance." Vinum

"Dense spicy bouquet, tart fruit and spice on the palate; elegant, compact style with racy flow, very classic, noticeable tannin and grip, nice freshness and ethereality. Needs time." Weinwisser

"Brilliant medium ruby red. A seductive richness on the nose, combined with cool red fruits and notes of iron and black pepper. The spicy note on the finish adds depth to the fresh red fruit, accompanied by a long vein of persistent grainy tannins. Super-elegant." Jancis Robinson

"Castello Romitorio's classic Brunello, which comes from the estate's highest plots - between 350 and 450 metres - embodies the vintage's grace without sacrificing depth or flavour. The aromas are ethereal at first, then join the scents of rosehip, liquorice root and juniper. The sweetness of the pure cherry in the mouth is balanced by a juicy acidity and powdery tannins. The wine has a sneaky substance and a long-lasting presence. The Filo di Seta may have more reserves for ageing, but I can't help but be completely charmed (for the price) by the sheer elegance of this wine." Decanter

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino impresses with a blend of dried citrus peel, cedar chips, floral scrub, black cherry and Tuscan dust. It is soft, even buoyant, with a depth of velvety, textured red and blue fruits and sweet, liquid purple tones colouring the palate. The 2018 finishes fresh and long with notes of wild blueberries and a touch of balsamic spice, framed by a layer of fine tannin. This is a complete success for the vintage." Vinous

"I like the dried purple undertones of the red and blue fruits, along with some walnut shell and olive. There is so much flavour here, packed into a compact core framed by silky, firm tannins. Dense and concentrated. Try it after 2024." James Suckling

"The Castello Romitorio 2018 Brunello di Montalcino shows crisp and tart fruit with cherry, cassis and wild plum. This medium-bodied wine offers plenty of freshness and brightness in a vintage that was challenging for many. This expression is unique thanks to the inner energy on display; the red fruits are prominent and the wine's balanced acidity rounds it all out." Wine Advocate

"A graceful red characterised by cherry, strawberry, rose, minerals and Mediterranean herbs. Supple and juicy, but firm, with a mineral finish. Lively and long." Wine Spectator

Sandro Chias Annata presents itself taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, its natural richness and lushness of fruit is convincing, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Then, in quick succession, secondary aromas of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon surprise, giving complexity and personality to the wine built up in many deep layers. This Brunello has wonderful potential for further bottle ageing, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

"Delicate bouquet of red berries, flowers and undergrowth; juicy in the mouth, compact, the tannins robust, nice melting, fine-meshed tannins, good length." Vinum

"To the northwest of Montalcino, Castello Romitorio’s vineyards are surrounded by thick woods receiving moderate sun exposure. The relatively cool setting was an advantage in 2017. Well put together with a graceful flow, this Brunello echoes its setting and opens with pronounced cedar and evocative forest floor accents. Neither heavy nor over-concentrated, the palate is replete with pulpy red berries. There is a succulence to the fruit and a silkiness to the texture, and nuances of pulverised stone weave throughout." Decanter

"The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is dusty, dark and floral at first, but with time, it becomes exotic and spicy. Black cherries lifted by minty herbs and camphor give way to floral undergrowth and tobacco as the 2017 gains in volume with each swirl of the glass. It’s silky-smooth and pliant yet shows remarkable purity and cooling acidity, as you perceive its red and hints of blue fruit slowly drenching the palate, leaving salty minerals and a coating of primary concentration. The long, penetrating finale mixes fine tannins and nuances of sour citrus in a powerful yet wonderfully balanced expression of the Romitorio vineyards." Vinous

"The Castello Romitorio 2017 Brunello di Montalcino comes from an estate that is quickly becoming a leader in a special niche of the Montalcino market. The wine is modern and soft, showing lots of contained ripeness and creaminess, yet it successfully embraces the fundamentals of the appellation and Sangiovese, thanks to its bright acidity and finely tuned structure. Few wines reach this level of precision, especially in a challenging vintage such as this." Wine Advocate

The grapes for Fornacinas Riserva come from a small 5 hectare plot and the result offers a wonderfully firm structure with plenty of warmth and harmony. On the palate, it convinces with textural richness and wonderful secondary aromas that come with three years of oak ageing. The initially crisp tannins will stand another year or two of bottle ageing to become softer and more relaxed. A top-year classic with a wonderfully intense and long final. SUPERIORE.DE

"This is very fine-tannined and silky with cherry and orange-peel aromas and flavors. It’s medium-to full-bodied with lots of berry, earth, walnut and dried-flower character at the end. From organically grown grapes. Very attractive now, better in a few years." James Suckling

"Traditional stone farmhouses in Tuscany always have a bread oven, or "forno" in Italian, somewhere near the entrance of the home. That wood-burning oven is a symbol of family warmth, inclusiveness and home. I'd like to think that this is the spirit with which Fornacina (the "little oven") is named. The estate's 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (a certified-organic wine) is a bottle I happily recommend to those looking for under-the-radar names in Montalcino. I love the delicate and bright nature of this wine and the subtle manner in which the wine's acidity and lean-bodied texture enlivens the palate." Wine Advocate

Clear, relatively cool, polished and deep nose with fine berry tones, a little dry herbs, pepper, hints of tobacco, ash and floral nuances. Taut, tart, fresh and precise fruit with noticeable acidity and present, fine tannins. Dense and persistent on the palate, smoky traces, some dry herbs, salt in the background, very good depth. For all its power, elegant style with a hint of bitter chocolate, very good, taut, tangy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"This wine has aromas of cherry pits, plums, nutmeg, cedar and some balsamic. It is full-bodied with tangy acidity and spicy, fleshy layers of fruit accompanied by sinewy tannins. A little linear. Powerful finish." James Suckling

"The La Gerla 2018 Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve also shows a thicker and more concentrated side, similar to the Brunello annata. I would argue that this density even goes a step further, with more texture and weight perceived on the palate. This powerful, full-bodied approach is accompanied by ripe cherries, blackberries, smoked spices and leather. There is a hint of sour fruit on the finish." Wine Advocate

"Deep and savoury, this red shows aromas of black cherry, blackberry, eucalyptus, rosemary, iron and earth. With assertive tannins, this finishes with a chewy, compact feel." Wine Spectator

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve exudes ripe strawberry and blueberry fruit in the glass, accompanied by crushed stone and violet pastilles. It is silky-soft and supple, with a depth of ripe red and black berries supported by a core of vibrant acidity. The final is of great depth and length, along with classic tannins that slowly fade lavender-scented plums and a hint of cocoa. The 2018 La Pieve is a real charmer." Vinous

"Raw material of great crispness for this new jewel, result of Sergio Rossi's vision. Notes of red plums on the nose, hints of undergrowth and wild mint, rhubarb on the finish. The mouthfeel is juicy and taut, with succulent tannins, mentholated notes return on the finish." Luca Gardini

"The sanguine, umami nose is a well-laid charcuterie board of carpaccio, Parmesan, dried tomatoes, olives and a cup of pomegranate seeds, with a dusting of oregano and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. The palate turns sweeter and juicier with dried fruit, but the tomatoes and herbs linger through a sophisticated, bitter finish." Wine Enthusiast

Poggio San Polo Brunello is a selection of the best grapes from the estate's various vineyard sites. It opens very engagingly with dark fruit, including plenty of black cherry and dark plum, optimally rounded off by a fine balsamic herbal spice and notes of white pepper. The palate has an almost perfect texture, a suppleness and silkiness that is refreshed and carried by a well-proportioned, refined Sangiovese acidity. Dark berry flavours, long, deep and with a very remarkable, slightly mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright ruby red colour with delicate garnet-red rim highlights. Alternating cherry fruit and cigar box on the nose. Harmonious and fresh on the palate, lively acidity, well-integrated tannins, lots of marzipan on the finish, lingers for a remarkably long time." Falstaff

"San Polo is located on the south-eastern flank of Montalcino. Monte Amiata rises above the estate and provides a constant breeze that keeps the humidity low. The 16 hectares are divided into eight plots and are blended depending on the vintage. The brick-coloured 2018 opens with aromas of charcoal, then is joined by smoky wild berries, dried orange peel and a hint of juniper. The core is richly concentrated without being overbearing, while supple tannins fill the mouth with an assertive, balanced structure. It finishes with an earthy hint of liquorice root." Decanter

"Shows earthy, rustic aromas that hint at a slight reduction, giving way to flavours of plum, cherry, rose, juniper, eucalyptus and iron. The powerful tannins characterise the compact finish." Wine Spectator

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino, a certified organic wine, shows a savoury character that accompanies the wine from start to finish on the palate. There is a core of black fruit, but the real highlight is the spicy contour of dark chestnut shells, acacia honey, ploughed earth and roasted rosemary that fills the balloon of the glass. This Brunello finishes on an acidic note and shows tannins that could use a few more years to soften. This is a wine of medium concentration." Wine Advocate

"Aromas of sour plums, cherry stones, bark and iodine, with some dried herbs. So fresh, tangy and flavourful, with bright berry fruit and savoury moss notes. Fine and integrated tannins. Medium body. Everything is about balance." James Suckling

"The mainly earthy, sanguine nose is enlivened by the slightly tart sweetness of the plums. This pleasant dynamic continues on the palate before finally giving way to a chocolaty, coffee-like finish. Firm but supple tannins provide structure, while the acidity brings warmth." Wine Enthusiast

"South-east of the denomination, a project of the Allegrini family, still relatively young but at the highest quality level, like this 2018. Pomegranate on the nose, with a hint of wild mint and juniper. Crisp on the palate, with salty tannins and a fruity-menthol finish." Luca Gardini

There are not 8,000 bottles of this great Brunello, a powerful and at the same time highly elegant wine. Ettore and Enrica Bandirola learned how to make wine from scratch at no less than Giancarlo (Siro) Pacenti. Insider tip! SUPERIORE.DE

"The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows impressive balance with a dark appearance that is not heavy and a compact texture that remains light and elegant all at once. Bold cherry fruit segues to licorice, tar and tangy cedar wood. The wine is silky and fresh with moderate to long persistence." Wine Advocate

"Dark and mysterious, this red offers plum, black cherry, leather, leafy tobacco and tar flavors. Fresh and lifted up by a layer of beefy tannins, lingering with a spicy, underbrush aftertaste." Wine Spectator

"A red with plenty of ripe and floral fruit on the nose as well as orange peel and cherry. Full body, linear and very fine with beautiful fruit. White pepper, too. Shows energy." James Suckling

"Elegantly scented, this fragrant red opens with scents of perfumed berry, iris, pipe tobacco and exotic spice. The vibrant linear palate evokes juicy cranberry, sour cherry and star anise framed in tightly wound fine-grained tannins while bright acidity provides balance. A savory saline note lingers on the finish." Wine Enthusiast

Franciacorta satèn brut with a clear bouquet of yellow fruit and medicinal herbs and a fresh style. Crisp fruit flavours of peach, citrus and melon in harmony with the opulent creaminess of freshly baked brioche. Very relaxed and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Distinctive golden yellow colour with fine perlage. Intense nose of hazelnut, buttery toast, followed by baked apple and hints of tropical fruit. Builds gently and elegantly on the palate with a soft mousse, great balance, lingers for a long time." Falstaff

"The 2019 Brut Satèn Vintage Collection tempts the imagination as an airy bouquet of dried flowers, toasted brioche, orange sorbet and hazelnut wafts up from the glass. This soothes with silken bubbles and juicy acidity as a savory wave of white pit fruits and gingery spice cascade across the palate. Long and spicy, the 2019 leaves the senses reeling with youthful tension as hints of orange zest mingle with a salty flourish through the remarkably fresh finale." Vinous

"Intense nose of white pepper, orange blossom, white peaches and apricots with deep cedar notes. The medium body has a round mousse, a citrusy palate and a zesty, persistent acidity. The long finish is savoury and creamy." James Suckling

Massimo Piccin lives the dream of giving new expression to Bordeaux grapes from Bolgheri and producing wines that combine power, elegance and longevity. And so the Sapaio magnificently offers its full, vital and tannin-rich style and takes a lot of time for the finish. Once again, part of the grapes come from Bibbona, i.e. outside the Bolgheri DOC, so that this great wine is only allowed to bear the label Toscana IGT. Truly no reason to mope ...

Beautiful, animating bouquet of blackcurrants, blueberries, lavender and a delicate hint of chocolate. Firm, full-bodied, multi-layered on the palate with an attractive extract sweetness, finely woven but definitely present tannin and a resting, seamless substance that leaves nothing to be desired until the long and tasty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Polished aromas of blueberries, mulberries, baking spice, sandalwood and rosemary. It’s full-bodied with tight, chewy tannins. Structured and layered with a fleshy texture. Try from 2023." James Suckling

"The 2018 Sapaio is distinguished by a lovely dark garnet-toned appearance that is deep and thickly concentrated but not without its shimmer and shine. Massimo Piccin shows a deft hand in a vintage that was not easy along the Tuscan coast. This wine is especially bright and focused in terms of its aromas, with black fruit, plum and ripe blackberry. Hints of spice and pipe tobacco add vertical lift and softness. The finish is leaner than we've seen in the past, but that 2018 austerity suits this wine well." Wine Advocate

The latest addition to Vajra's Barolo line-up comes from a 1.5 hectare parcel in Coste di Rose, a small MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) in the Barolo region. This is a steep slope at 310 metres above sea level with a high proportion of sandy soils with good drainage, whose vines and soils are cultivated in a natural way. This very accessible Barolo presents itself straightforward, forward and impresses even at a young age with its refreshing frankness. A very precise bouquet of cherry, plum, liquorice, spices and menthol. On the palate, a wide and multi-layered arc of fruit with lots of juice and power, supporting tannins and a full, long and mineral-minty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, luminous ruby red. Rich nose with floral notes of violets, roses and a slight hint of blood orange. The palate is juicy, light, with well-integrated tannins and a pleasant aftertaste. Nice acidity, fresh and mineral finish." Falstaff

"Very clean red-berry fruit on the nose, together with citrus and cedar notes. Medium body with fine-grained tannins and a tight bead of fruit at the end." James Suckling

"The 2018 Barolo Coste di Rose is a delicate, understated Barolo that will need a bit of time to fully emerge. There's lovely purity to the fruit here, but also some angular contours that need to resolve. The 2018 is a mid-weight wine in the style of the vintage, and yet there is fine balance." Vinous

"Plenty of hidden depth of black cherry and plum. Notes of Raspberry and strawberries with complexity and a fine balance and length." Decanter

"With fruit from above the village of Barolo, the G.D. Vajra 2018 Barolo Coste di Rose shows a large aromatic scope and ample substance. This vineyard is characterized by very high density Diano sandstone, which explains the wine’s bigger sensorial impact. Its texture is velvety and smooth, and the wine offers lots of purple and red fruits with soft earth and perfumed flower. The vintage is open knit and broad in scope, perhaps lacking some of the brilliant focus you get in the cooler years." Wine Advocate

The even stricter selection of the grapes in 2017 led to a total of half the number of bottles compared to previous vintages. The result, however, is impressive: An extremely attractive bouquet with earthy notes, only gradually revealing ripe strawberries, spicy herbs, leather and a little coffee. As it progresses, spicy orange peel, sour cherry and mint, followed by salty minerals. The lively acidity ensures that the wine remains fresh and supple despite its compact structure. The initially firm tannins gracefully envelop the pretty fruit core with further aeration, and in the long final we then discover sweet spices and traces of white pepper. SUPERIORE.DE

"The Sassetti Livio Pertimali 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is quite bright and lifted with cherries and fresh fruits that pop from the glass. The primary intensity is radiant in this wine, setting it apart from many of its peers. It covers the palate with mid-weight intensity, nice acidity and silky tannins. The brightness you get here is so attractive now, so I see little reason to wait much longer before pulling this cork." Wine Advocate

"The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino makes itself known with a burst of dusty black raspberries, mentholated herbs, crushed ashen stone and dark flowery undergrowth. Silky-smooth and round in feel, it impresses with a cooling wave of mint-infused wild berry fruits mixed with balsamic spices and wood-smoked salts. While the 2017 doesn’t have the weight and density you’d expect from such a young Pertimali, yet it makes up for it with grace and purity, leaving a light coating of tannins and minerals to mingle throughout the finale." Vinous

"Black cherry and mushroom with some dried flower undertones. Full-bodied with fine velvety tannins and a juicy and succulent finish. The tannins are very polished for a 2017. Try from 2023 onwards." James Suckling

"One of the founding wineries of the Brunello Consortium, an ancient wisdom that proceeds in the line of tradition to realize wines of excellence. The nose is neat and intriguing, with small red fruits, touches of red currant, star anise and undergrowth, with a finish of freshness, on the notes of wild mint. The mouthfeel is juicy and dense, closing with officinal return." Luca Gardini

40 years Brunello di Montalcino by Casanova di Neri: Intense bouquet of sour cherry with nuances of chocolate, spices, liquorice and herbs. Energetic and highly vital on the palate. Wonderfully layered and seamlessly integrated dark fruit flavours open up with each sip, paired with a subtle vein of salt. Its tannins are like velvet and silk, the long, sweeping finish reveals that Sangiovese excellence we love so much at Casanova di Neri! SUPERIORE.DE

"Also convincing in this vintage: Scents of cherries, flowers and herbs; intense on the palate, robust texture, lots of character and juice, excellent length on complex notes of wild berries and spices. Pleases with its complexity and elegance." Vinum

"Dense, still closed bouquet with dark red and blue fruits reminiscent of plum and dark cherry, clearly tobacco and chocolate as well as balsamic nuances. Powerful, immensely compact, but materially melting palate with juicy contours, quite different from the warm 2017, much more grippy with a tightly gripping, densely meshed, but definitely sweet tannin. final grippy and animated with cranberry juice. Good future potential." Weinwisser

"Sparkling ruby-garnet with brightening rim. Appealing nose with notes of blood orange, cranberries and crisp cherries, Mediterranean herbs in the background. Shows very good tension on the palate, lots of juicy fruit, fine-meshed tannin, saline, a classic." Falstaff

"Lots of clean cherry and plum character on the nose and palate. Medium to full-bodied with dense, chewy tannins and a long finish. Nice freshness to the fruit, but give the tannins a year or two to settle. 40th anniversary bottling. Best from 2024." James Suckling

"The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino keeps me returning to the glass to savour its pretty bouquet of dusty flowers, exotic spices and dried strawberries. The palate is like pure silk, seamless and supple, with a depth of dark red fruits and mineral tones that give a more tactile feel towards the finish. Balsamic herbs, cedar and tobacco resonate on the long and dramatic final, while fine tannins frame the experience with youthful poise. As is often the case, Casanova di Neri is a master at producing one of the region's most balanced and enjoyable Brunellos." Vinous

"The Casanova di Neri 2018 Brunello di Montalcino, with a special commemorative label celebrating its 40th anniversary (1978-2018), is lush and carefully concentrated to offer intensity and richness of structure. The bright fruit remains intact in this wine, with plenty of cherry and blackberry, an encouraging indication of the future cellar potential of this bottle. Many Brunellos from this vintage show faded or dried fruit, but fortunately not this wine. The acidity is mild and fades gently into the background, and the tannins are well integrated." Wine Advocate

"A bright, fruity style that offers aromas of cherries, strawberries, currants, white pepper and minerals. Accents of almonds and earth emerge on the finish. It stands out for its balance and pleasant length." Wine Spectator

"Another fundamental label from Casanova di Neri, a compendium of craftsmanship and territorial vocation. Black raspberry, with balsamic and officinal notes, like sage, on the nose, then liquorice nuances. The mouthfeel is iodine-juicy, with a return of medicinal herbs and liquorice." Luca Gardini