Pio Cesare

A few years ago, Pio Boffa, who has sadly since passed away, bought himself a "small" present for his 60th birthday. Not a new set of golf clubs, a picture to hang in the hall, a holiday for him and his family. No. Just a vineyard called Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba, a region of Piedmont where four generations of the Pio Cesare dynasty were never able to gain a foothold. Originally, the grapes from the 10-hectare vineyard were intended to enhance the quality of his classic Barolo, but after the first barrel samples, Pio Boffa realised unmistakably that this would be at least an equal - albeit stylistically different - counterpart to the hitherto undisputed flagship Ornato.

Mosconi is more light-footed than Ornato, the nose is dominated by red rather than black fruit, with an irresistible liquorice and a juiciness that will immediately put it at the top of the entire appellation. On the palate, it has a precision that is unrivalled; it is less powerful than Ornato, but more elegant and subtle. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, shiny ruby-garnet colour. Mysterious nose, initially of cold black tea, then delicate earthy notes, then mint, cinchona bark, then delicate wild berry and raspberry fruit in the second area. Shows a lot of tannin and pressure on the palate, builds up like a pyramid, noble earthy tones on the finish, lingers for a very long time." Falstaff

"Mid-to-deep ruby with orange tinges. Less exalted that the Parusso version but with the same perfumed undertow and with savoury, minerally and oaky hints. Totally seductive palate of succulent, round fruit spiked with gripping tannins." Jancis Robinson

"This red wine with its cherry and raspberry fruit is ripe and lively, with a solid basic structure. It gains depth with notes of iron, liquorice and tar, while a salty note emerges on the long, intense finish. Ripe, with a sense of restraint - a fascinating combination." Wine Spectator

"The 2019 Barolo Mosconi is a great wine from this vineyard. Rich and explosive, the 2019 offers plenty of Mosconi intensity along with the more classic sense of structure that is now a signature of the house. Dark red fruits, sage, blood orange, tobacco and cedar all come through beautifully in this dramatic, full-bodied Barolo." Vinous

"The Pio Cesare 2019 Barolo Mosconi offers the structure and length of a Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba. You also get a salty mineral tone or rusty iron framing a core of wild berries and blackcurrants. The Mosconi always strikes me as very straightforward and direct, and this particular sharpness is what I like best about this vintage." Wine Advocate

"Macerated raspberries combine with wild roses and crushed chalk in this evocative wine that captivates from the first sniff. Mixed cherries emerge on the palate, dusted with aniseed, liquorice and savoury herbs, with superfine tannins leading to a long finish that I wish would never end." Wine Enthusiast

"Cru Mosconi, the house's latest acquisition, a perfect snapshot of the Monforte terroir. Dogwood on the nose, with notes of pink grapefruit and clove, in the mouth with iodised tannins, crisp and exciting, beautiful finish." Luca Gardini

"The flavours of blue fruits such as raspberries and blueberries are very pronounced. Liquorice. Crushed stone. Violets. Full-bodied. So noble with ultra-fine tannins that last forever. Wonderful depth with cool and concentrated fruit. A lively and sophisticated wine with power and finesse. A classic." James Suckling

A few years ago, Pio Boffa, who has sadly since passed away, bought himself a "small" present for his 60th birthday. Not a new set of golf clubs, a picture to hang in the hall, a holiday for him and his family. No. Just a vineyard called Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba, a region of Piedmont where four generations of the Pio Cesare dynasty were never able to gain a foothold. Originally, the grapes from the 10-hectare vineyard were intended to enhance the quality of his classic Barolo, but after the first barrel samples, Pio Boffa realised unmistakably that this would be at least an equal - albeit stylistically different - counterpart to the hitherto undisputed flagship Ornato.

Mosconi is more light-footed than Ornato, the nose is dominated by red rather than black fruit, with an irresistible liquorice and a juiciness that will immediately put it at the top of the entire appellation. On the palate, it has a precision that is unrivalled; it is less powerful than Ornato, but more elegant and subtle. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich ruby colour with a delicate garnet rim. Very fragrant and surprisingly fresh nose of dewy roses, with pithy plums and some dark cherries. Full-bodied and straightforward on the palate, initially showing fine fruit, then spicy components of fennel seed and leather, full-bodied pressure on the final." Falstaff

"The Mosconi unfolds with a medley of ripe plums and cherries, underpinned by the gentle scent of blue violets and rosebuds, with sandalwood, wild herbs and roasted shiitake adding depth. On the palate, the red fruits shine with a refined and silky structure, flanked by a rich carpet of savoury spices and a hint of salty minerality." Wine Enthusiast

"Mosconi shows silky or velvety tannins, and Ornato is more structured. This wine is lifted in terms of aromas, with bright raspberry and blue flowers. It reveals an open but translucent quality that gives this Barolo an especially elegant and undertone personality." Wine Advocate

"The Mosconi opens with an appealing rusty aroma intermingled with macerated cherry and balsamic herbs. Its character is vertical, with a more red-fruited profile compared to the broader, palate-spanning, dark-fruited Ornato. Dusty tannins and savoury red and black cherries at the core are surrounded by flecks of orange peel, iron, salt, herbs, black pepper and oak. A beautiful, complex and age-worthy Barolo." Decanter

"Enchanting flavours of flowers such as violets and lemon blossom, with raspberries and cranberries. Full-bodied yet focused, with a structure that builds and builds and builds on the palate, remaining fresh and lively. The tannins are energetic and very, very long. A contemporary jewel. Fascinating. A thoughtful wine." James Suckling

Barolo Ornato is a great wine every year. With its wild herbs, minerals and ferrous notes, it captures the true character of Serralunga. Its bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, framed by gravel, forest floor, blue flowers and candied orange peel. The wine also has a dusty, mineral note and is very intense both on the nose and on the palate. Ornato starts with finely integrated tannins and an acidity that sustains all these fruit flavours. A wine that is consistently vertical, straightforward and frontal. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, shiny ruby-garnet colour. Nose of toast, mint, then fine raspberries and rosehips, fine earthy tones, cardamom. Great entry on the palate, deep and multi-layered, savoury, comes in several waves, lingers remarkably long and juicy." Falstaff

"An inviting red that offers ripe plums, cherries, earth, eucalyptus, iron and tobacco flavours. It becomes denser and slightly viscous on the finish, with earthy and herbal elements echoing. All components are present, so be patient." Wine Spectator

"The Barolo Ornato 2019 is a big, tightly wound Serralunga Barolo that needs time to unfold. Iron, white pepper, mint, dried herbs and orange peel open up, but with great restraint. Today, the Ornato is impenetrable. Let's see what happens over time." Vinous

"The Pio Cesare 2019 Barolo Ornato comes from one of the most famous MGA vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba. The character of this wine is always characterised by structure and power, and these qualities are particularly evident in a vintage like 2019, which offers more concentrated fruit at the start. The Ornato is imbued with dark berry flavours that contrast with spicy tones, tar and smoke. It finishes with finely structured tannins." Wine Advocate

"The Ornato 2019 emphasises the special nature of this vineyard with its grace and structure, which combine to create pure class. Dark cherry flavours are nestled among wild herbs, flowers and savoury spices that grab and draw your attention with every sip. This robust and well-structured wine is built for the future, when all the parts relax into each other and show just how great this wine is." Wine Enthusiast

"This wine is beautiful with ultra-fine tannins, cherries, berries and flowers. Medium to full body. Wonderful length. Very classic in structure. Straightforward and racy. Taut on the finish. Give it four to six years in the bottle." James Suckling

"From Cascina Ornato, the first cru in the history of the estate, a sculptural Barolo with power and structure. Blackcurrant on the nose, notes of liquorice and peony. Salty on the palate, with liquorice notes on the finish." Luca Gardini

Barbaresco Bricco di Treiso presents itself with more power and depth than the normal Barbaresco. Dark red stone fruit, menthol, spices, leather and some cedar wood on the nose. Powerful on the palate, even at a young age, with a lot of muscle power, which, together with the harmoniously balanced tannin and acidity structure, suggests a great, long life with a promising development. SUPERIORE.DE

"Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Inviting, accessible nose with notes of pomegranate, beetroot and fresh raspberry, plus some rust. Polished and fine in attack and finish, lots of raspberry, plus fine-meshed tannins, covers a wide range." Falstaff

"Offers a nice blend of fruit and floral tones, with aromas and flavours of cherry, rose, iron and eucalyptus. The dense tannins give the wine good grip, and the finish is graceful." Wine Spectator

"The wines from il Bricco are as classic as they can be and show the passion with which Pio Cesare makes wine. Aromas of dark cherry jam, stewed plums with crushed bay leaf and ground spices dominate the nose. Elegant with a fine tannin line that runs from start to finish, balancing the flavours of wild berries, black tea and savoury spices, a true tightrope act that succeeds almost perfectly. A jewel of a wine." Wine Enthusiast

"The Pio Cesare 2020 Barbaresco Il Bricco reveals elegant aromas and nicely concentrated fruit that is embroidered with spice, dark plum and hints of nutmeg." Wine Advocate

"Exquisite aromas of strawberries, cherries, hibiscus and cranberries. A hint of cedar and sandalwood. Medium-bodied, with very fine tannins that run the length of the wine and blend beautifully with it. Give this wine four or six years to fully open up." James Suckling

Barolo Ornato is a great wine every year. With its wild herbs, minerals and ferrous notes, it captures the true character of Serralunga. Its bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, framed by gravel, forest floor, blue flowers and candied orange peel. The wine also has a dusty, mineral note and is very intense both on the nose and on the palate. Ornato starts with finely integrated tannins and an acidity that sustains all these fruit flavours. A wine that is consistently vertical, straightforward and frontal. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, rich ruby-garnet colour. Inviting and dense nose of dried roses, wild raspberries and orange peel, plus liquorice and truffles. Hearty and gripping on the palate, dense tannins in many layers, coated in sweet enamel, earthy notes on the final, dense substance, made for a long life." Falstaff

"The Ornato is deep and earthy, with a layer of sous-bois flavours underneath spicy hedgerow berries. It's framed by powerful wood, and although it has that serralunga tannin structure, they're quite silky. It's intense, but a wine that makes you think and doesn't give everything away from the start. The cherry and blackberry fruits have a gentle sweetness, and the finish is fine and savoury, with notes of wild herbs, spice and graphite. Give this wine a few years in the bottle to experience it at its best." Decanter

"This Barolo from the Ornato vineyard offers tantalising aromas of ripe black cherries, cinnamon cake, candied blood orange peel and a hint of fresh bay leaf. The palate is exceptionally balanced, with a precise, linear structure that presents flavours of juicy blackberries, dark chocolate and a hint of vanilla. The wine's impressive length and depth are evident in the long, satisfying finish." Wine Enthusiast

"This is a structured wine with firm tannins and dense fruit that falls on the darker side of the spectrum with blackberry and damson plum. You also get that typical Serralunga d'Alba imprint of rusty mineral and dark licorice. The wine is quite ample in terms of volume and depth, and iy's definitely reflective of its territory of origin." Wine Advocate

"This wine is firm and tightly wound, with thick, refined tannins that set the stage for cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco and iron flavours, while dusty, mouth-coating tannins characterise the finish. You have to be patient for the fruit to emerge." Wine Spectator

"This wine is very concentrated with lots of ripe tannins in the centre of the palate. Very velvety and finely structured with a lacy character. Medium to full body. Flavours of plums and spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg in the fruit. Bitter citrus fruit flavours. Taut muscles. Sophisticated. Needs four or five years to develop." James Suckling