Bibi Graetz | Testamatta

Testamatta means "crazy in the head" and this name hits the nail on the head. When you know with what mad obsession Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand personality-strong results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by many years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work, until finally the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines of the rocky single vineyard Serrone were identified.

The harvest is exclusively manual and each grape is meticulously selected for its quality and ripeness, which then finds its way into the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at low temperature, then transferred unfiltered to 225l barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

straw yellow with golden reflections. Complex bouquet of white pineapple, apple, pear and kiwi, fine notes of mussel shell. Full-bodied, multi-layered and fleshy on the palate, always with a very precise and energetic mouthfeel, pleasant freshness and a mineral impression. Then, in the endlessly long finish, salty layers, fine, barely noticeable tannin and notes of white pepper. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Sparkling, rich straw yellow. Fine and fragrant nose of mirabelle plums, camomile, some resin and light honey. Full-bodied on the palate, has good tension, nutty-creamy in the back, salty finish." Falstaff

"A solid white with dried pear, apple, cream and stone aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied with a beautiful core of fruit and a steely, minerally aftertaste. Bright acidity with phenolic texture that holds the wine together nicely, giving it length and tension. Turns lightly chewy and round at the end." James Suckling

"Twenty years in the wine business is nothing, but for me it is twenty years of my life. A life entirely dedicated to wine as a means of expression, and with the current vintage I have finally achieved the finesse I have been looking for for so long. Elegance, that is the word that describes Testamatta 2019. The 20th anniversary of Testamatta is a real milestone, the pinnacle of quality that I have been looking for in my Sangiovese since the first vintage in 2000. Testamatta 2019 is perfectly balanced with deep layers that show incredible complexity."

With these words, Bibi Graetz presented the latest vintage of his Testamatta, the fulfilment of this creative winemaker's dream. Bibi decided twenty years ago to set out from Fiesole on an extraordinary journey into the world of Tuscan wine - with the intention of striving for excellence by assembling plots of great quality, even if they are far apart. A "crazy", innovative, fascinating journey that has grown year after year.

And Testamatta means what describes this Bibi Graetz best: a smiling, creative and passionate person. The wine tells of the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines and speaks of stony soils and hillside vineyards.

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the estate's 5 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all grapes are picked at the perfect time of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed, with scents of rose petals that transition into ripe red to dried cherries and red currants. This is joined by aromas of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mix of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta 2019 is characterised by a lovely freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins leading into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"The 20 on the label tells of the 2019 anniversary vintage for Bibi Graetz. The Testamatta consists of pure Sangiovese and has a super delicate colour. Delicate, delicate and super light, it presents itself on the nose, very fragrant and floral, with fine, spicy notes of tobacco and herbal sweets. In the bulbous Hermitage glass of the Veritas series, it smells much fresher than in a Bordeaux goblet, a little tomato sauce and broth in the background. Superfine and fragrant, it opens with Pinot-like delicacy in the mouth. Very charming and delicate, juicy and ripe, with excellent balance. The tannins are slenderly arranged and slightly rough. Complex, idiosyncratic Sangiovese that is clearly leaner than a Chianti Classico Riserva or a Brunello di Montalcino." Weinwisser

"Sparkling ruby, luminous. Intense and appealing nose with lots of ripe plums, black cherry, plus some porcini mushrooms and dark olive paste. Powerful on the palate, crisp, precise fruit, juicy, lots of fine-grained tannin, long finish." Falstaff

"Smooth and sophisticated with polished tannin and a lovely seam of pure aromatics - sour cherry, subtle tobacco, and straw." Decanter

"A pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red." Wine Advocate

"Yet another fine year, however some wines in 2019 - although not Testamatta - lacked a little concentration. Relatively light in colour, it's at the other end of the density scale to the wines of the early 2000s. There are piquant raspberry and redcurrant aromas and both the nose and palate show admirable delicacy and restraint. Very elegant and pure, its fine acidity gives excellent length and ageing potential." Decanter

"Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025." James Suckling

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Beautiful, fresh flavours of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon shrub. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that give the wine brightness and energy. It definitely follows the new wave of crisp, lively Tuscan Sangiovese that emphasise drinkability and transparency." James Suckling

"The 2020 Rosso Testamatta is dusty and floral in the glass, with flint, peppery herbs and tart raspberry. It is refined and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried by a seamless, silky texture. Though structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed, while a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a treasure." Vinous

"Bibi Graetz has been tinkering with his recipe for this wine for a long time, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The Testamatta 2020 is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, prioritising cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern sites). In the wake of climate change and in search of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from an airy, high-altitude site) gives Testamatta its wonderful clarity, sharpness and sublime bouquet. The result is a lively, transparent and fresh wine, both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transition and a wine to watch." Wine Advocate

"Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a beautiful fragrance and expression. The fine tannins give the wine a creamy, chalky flavour with bright, juicy strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You can also sense the savoury side, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herbs counterbalancing the fruit and high acidity. I admire the finesse here, the sharp fruit gives the energy and the chalky texture the layers. It feels well controlled, powerful yet with balance. It doesn't have as much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuances of flavour are exciting and engaging, and it has a long, serene finish. A contemplative wine that leaves you wanting more and more. Produced in the new winery facilities in Fiesole. The grapes come from the six best vineyards: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena, each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to reach the perfect ripening points." Decanter

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified.

The grapes are harvest exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Straw yellow with golden reflections. Complex bouquet of white pineapple, apple, pear and kiwi, fine notes of mussel shell. Full-bodied, multi-layered and fleshy on the palate, always with a very precise and energetic mouthfeel, pleasant freshness and a mineral flavour. The endlessly long finish has salty layers, fine, barely perceptible tannins and notes of white pepper. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Luminous straw. A gorgeous, perfumed nose with garden herbs and basil and chalk and just a hint of mint? Amazing precision, and the fruit is right on the edge before fading into orange or tangerine. Fine citric palate. Very focused, but taut and viscous and a little restrained. Very precise and long." Jancis Robinson

"The Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta Bianco is fresh in character and linear in terms of its aromatic delivery. It helps that one-third of the wine goes through stainless steel, with the rest in neutral oak. This approach allows you to better appreciate aromas of fresh peach, white plumeria flower, persimmon, salty minimality and iodine. It's also worth noting that the Testamatta sources much of its fruit from north-facing slopes. Those cooler conditions certainly help in a hot vintage like 2022." Wine Advocate

"Lots of lemon curd, honeysuckle, white peach, white stone and other flowers. Underneath it all, some blanched almonds and sea breeze. Also a hint of seaweed. Full-bodied and multi-layered with pronounced flavours of dried lemons and apples. Oyster shells. Some phenols produced by the wind during the growing season." James Suckling

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"For the wines of Bibi Graetz, 2021 is one of the most convincing vintages to date. The Testamatta is once again a very independent, single-varietal Sangiovese with a light, delicate colour. Deep, very fragrant and seductive, the characterful bouquet then develops in a very clear manner. Juicy and transparent on the palate, long and profoundly multi-faceted, very harmonious and polished, it has a wiry, energetic acidity that gives it length and complexity. Its filigree structure is rich in finesse and expansive, slightly brittle, with a lot of Sangiovese character." Weinwisser

"Bright ruby red colour with a sparkling core. Youthful and fresh on the nose, floral, violets and fresh cherries, light pepper spice and a vegetal touch. Juicy on the palate, with present acidity, plus clear fruit in the centre and a juicy finish." Falstaff

"Brilliant and only medium ruby red in colour. Restrained nose of red fruits with exotic spice notes and a hint of soya. Very fine, still very closed and very fresh. Fairly firm tannins, which are still a little bitter at the moment, but will undoubtedly develop with further ageing. Cranberries on the finish and very elegant, although still tannic at the moment." Jancis Robinson

"The 2021 Testamatta blossoms with an array of wild strawberry, rose petal and dusty sage, yet is very understated and refined. It is silky to the core, with an elegant wave of ripe red and blue fruits flowing over a stream of fresh acidity. The wine finishes with a palpable mineral note and a crisp concentration of wild berries, while a hint of liquorice fades amidst a gentle tannin. The ongoing pursuit of purity at Bibi Graetz is on full display here." Vinous

"A pure, resonant red, with strawberry, cherry, rose, wild thyme, black pepper and mineral aromas and flavors. Though taut and linear now, this offers a center of ripe fruit, terrific balance and a long aftertaste of fruit, herb and mineral notes." Wine Spectator

"The nose starts light and sweet with aromas of vanilla and cedar before becoming richer with notes of cherries and candied oranges. On the palate, an undertone of fresh earth blossoms under a starry sky of cherries and strawberries. Silky tannins invite you to linger now, while lively acidity suggests you should come back for more fun in a few years." Wine Enthusiast

"The 2021 Testamatta is a Sangiovese that comes from different vineyards with different cool microclimates. The ideal is to emphasise the transparency and fragility of the variety. The fruit from the Olmo vineyard plays a major role and "gives this wine a strong character", says Bibi. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violets, roses, forest green and candied orange peel. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives the wine a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are easy to handle and oak ageing is kept to an elegant minimum. The vinification is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and radiant." Wine Advocate

"Beautifully fragrant on the nose, delicately perfumed and inviting with subtle wildflower scents, red and black berries and sweet spices. Chalky and powdery tannins support the super bright acidity that gives this wine such a sharp, exciting and vibrant expression. The tannins are very fine but have a savoury note that maintains interest and allows the acidity and bright fruit flavours to shine through. Beautifully delineated and expressed, elegant, refined, utterly beguiling yet with layers of flavour and intensity and such a long finish. It is extremely drinkable, and that is quite an achievement at this young stage. Well crafted, balanced and pleasant with a hint of heat and spice on the finish. Really wonderful and totally charming." Decanter

"Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense, linear tannins that have an ultra-fine texture. It is fresh and savoury, bright and concentrated. Mineral and crisp. The pH is 3.4, emphasising the strength of the acidity. Crisp. Salty. So delicious now, but it will age incredibly well." James Suckling

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Straw yellow with golden reflections. A cooler vintage that breaks the cycle of hot vintages. A pure, fresh and lively bouquet of white grapefruit, fennel and lemon juice. On the palate, there is a great natural citrus acidity, but also a great fullness - like a volcano of freshness that shoots up vertically, with all the depth underneath. A gentle spiciness on the finish. This is the freshest vintage to date, combined with a great juiciness. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, pale straw yellow colour. Slightly restrained at the start, aromas of acacia honey, butter and light caramel. Full-bodied on the palate, juicy fruit on the mid-palate, savoury, somewhat phenolic on the final." Falstaff

"This 100% Ansonica, which comes from vineyards on the island of Giglio, offers complex notes of lemon leaves, apricots, demerara sugar, crushed apples and some hints of leek. On the palate, it is intense and tangy, with a pleasant texture and citrus notes of pink grapefruit and lemon, finishing with apricot and floral notes. A really beautiful white wine that has a lot to offer." Decanter

"The 2023 Testamatta Bianco opens with a saturated, golden yellow colour and dense aromas of peach pie, salty minerality and spicy saffron. After fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels, with frequent stirring of the lees to create a creamy finish." Wine Advocate

"Complex flavours of white pears, yellow plums and light mangoes with hints of minerals and fresh flowers. Medium to full-bodied with a dense mid palate and integrated phenols that give it grace and sophistication." James Suckling

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, bright ruby colour. Initially somewhat restrained, then shows notes of dark chocolate, dark cherry, lots of blackberry, some plum. Juicy attack and finish, very good tension, opens up with fine-meshed tannins, long final." Falstaff

"The 2022 Testamatta Rosso was made from the fruit of all the north-facing vineyards and is intended to showcase the power of Sangiovese. In fact, many parcels were recently removed from the blend to focus on fruit concentration and elegance. This wine is packed with dense berry fruit, blueberries, spice and soft earth. Bright, acidic freshness gives the Sangiovese backbone." Wine Advocate

"It shows dusty, earthy notes, creamy dark cherries, green olives and spices on a vertical framework with strong salinity. It is precise and energetic, balanced and balletic, with a beautiful vibrancy of tangy raspberry, cherry, wild herbs and a hint of plum." Decanter

"The purity of the fruit is so impressive, with al dente fruit character of sliced cherries, cranberries and citrus melding together beautifully. It is medium to full-bodied and growing on the palate, with firm and layered tannins and a long, intense finish. It needs another three to four years to refine, but is already very enticing. Great beauty. Irresistible now, but best after 2027." James Suckling

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Beautiful, fresh flavours of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon shrub. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that give the wine brightness and energy. It definitely follows the new wave of crisp, lively Tuscan Sangiovese that emphasise drinkability and transparency." James Suckling

"The 2020 Rosso Testamatta is dusty and floral in the glass, with flint, peppery herbs and tart raspberry. It is refined and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried by a seamless, silky texture. Though structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed, while a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a treasure." Vinous

"Bibi Graetz has been tinkering with his recipe for this wine for a long time, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The Testamatta 2020 is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, prioritising cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern sites). In the wake of climate change and in search of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from an airy, high-altitude site) gives Testamatta its wonderful clarity, sharpness and sublime bouquet. The result is a lively, transparent and fresh wine, both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transition and a wine to watch." Wine Advocate

"Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a beautiful fragrance and expression. The fine tannins give the wine a creamy, chalky flavour with bright, juicy strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You can also sense the savoury side, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herbs counterbalancing the fruit and high acidity. I admire the finesse here, the sharp fruit that provides energy and the chalky texture that builds the layers. It feels well controlled, powerful yet with balance. It doesn't have as much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuances of flavour are exciting and engaging, and it has a long, serene finish. A contemplative wine that leaves you wanting more and more. Produced in the new winery facilities in Fiesole. The grapes come from the six best vineyards: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena, each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to reach the perfect ripening points." Decanter

The small vineyard of Pietrabona on the island of Giglio, which is over 80 years old, yields an Ansonica of outstanding quality, and so Bibi Graetz decided to vinify the grapes separately in small batches. The vines stand on a bed of rocks and granite sand not 50 metres from the sea, and so a wine is produced that convinces with a subtle scent of ripe oranges, fine spiciness and minerality. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, light golden yellow. Initially shows notes of flint and honeydew melon, then lots of camomile, slightly iodine-salty components in the background. Shows very good tension on the palate, nice play between salty components and ripe yellow fruit, spreads well, freshness and lots of pressure on the final." Falstaff

"The dried fruits of pineapple, apricot and cooked apple and peaches in the nose are very attractive. It’s full and dense with lots of fruit and a phenolic and structured texture. Feels more like a red than a white. Salty undertone. Tuscan in personality. Ansonica from a single vineyard on Giglio Island." James Suckling

The small, 80-year-old vineyard of Pietrabona on the island of Giglio produces an Ansonica of outstanding quality, and so Bibi Graetz decided to vinify the grapes separately in small batches. The vines stand on a bed of rocks and granite sand less than 50 metres from the sea, resulting in a wine with a subtle aroma of ripe oranges, fine spice, flint and minerality. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright straw yellow with white-golden reflections. More brooding and slightly deeper than the Testamatta and restrained due to complex, muted oak. Multi-layered and opening up in the glass. It opens up very slowly on the palate. The ripe acidity comes almost as an afterthought and then wires the long finish. Superfine texture." Jancis Robinson

"The 2022 vintage is the third year in a row of consistent summer heat, but the island microclimate benefits from breezes that keep things from heating up too much. In fact, temperatures here remain quite stable which helps because there is very little rainfall. This wine has a direct and vertical character with pretty richness. It offers tropical tones of papaya, gooseberry and green melon with salted caramel and spicy saffron." Wine Advocate

"Intense aromas of lime zest and other citrus fruits. Also some apricot. Crushed stone. Sea breeze and crushed sea salt. Full-bodied with a firm and intense texture that is so long and flavourful. It lasts for minutes. Beautiful bitter notes of dried lemon and apricot. Botanical notes. Slight bite adds to the complexity." James Suckling

The small, 80-year-old vineyard of Pietrabona on the island of Giglio produces an Ansonica of outstanding quality, and so Bibi Graetz decided to vinify the grapes separately in small batches. The vines stand on a bed of rocks and granite sand less than 50 metres from the sea, resulting in a wine with a subtle aroma of ripe oranges, fine spice, flint and minerality.

Even richer, with a somewhat more exotic flavour profile and corresponding complexity than the Testamatta Bianco. Its freshness, fullness and ability to perfectly convey acidity and minerality are strongly reminiscent of a Meursault. Great complexity on the palate, walnut and white almond, blood orange, peach and apricot, guava and quince, passion fruit and passion flower. So juicy and rich and yet ethereal in its freshness. The citrus-fruity acidity is more diffuse and therefore a little better integrated than in the Testamatta Bianco. Great! SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, sparkling golden yellow colour. Appealing nose with notes of bergamot and apricot, plus fine spicy components of oregano and rosemary. Full-bodied and dense in the attack and on the palate, rich apricot fruit, good pressure, with a final of salt and sea spray." Falstaff

"The 2023 Colore Bianco, made from the Ansonica grape from a special vineyard in the Pietrabuona Valley on this rustic Tuscan island, offers a pretty bouquet of peach, orange peel, sea salt and baked apple. The wine is soft and structured with mild acidity." Wine Advocate

"It's more floral and airy than the Testamatta - with aromas of Mediterranean herbs, apricot skin and some yeast - and in the mouth it's more savoury: olives, capers and herbs come to the fore. Vertical, salty and structured, it has a stony profile with more concentration than the Testamatta, and its subtle lemon zest and apple flavours in the mid-palate add complexity. Delicious." Decanter

"Orange blossom, orange peel, sliced oranges, sea salt and granite. Medium to full-bodied with lots of gorgeous fruit and wonderful character. Quite exotic and wild, with perfectly ripe fruit. The yeast was stirred three times a week. Slightly phenolic, with minerals and vegetal notes. Give this wine three to four years of bottle ageing to soften it." James Suckling

Bibi Graetz: "Monumental, there is no better word to characterise this vintage of roundness in every single aspect of the wine. Colore has elegance, freshness and an incredible acidity that is surprisingly noticeable on the nose and at the first sip."

From some of the oldest Sangiovese vineyards comes Colore every year, the maximum expression of Bibi Graetz' dream. The barren, sandy soils at high altitudes create the perfect terroir for a wine that can tell the true story of Tuscany and its inhabitants. The grapes for Colore were selected from vineyards in Lamole, Vincigliata and Siena. Each vineyard was harvested up to eight times in order to achieve the optimum ripening time for as many grapes as possible. Each parcel is matured separately in barriques for almost two years before the final blend is decided. Only the best Sangiovese barriques from each vintage become Colore. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, sparkling ruby colour. Intense nose with notes of raspberry, rhubarb, beetroot, plum and cherry jam. Firm tannins in the attack and on the palate, fine raspberry and cherry fruit, good tension, some cinnamon on the final, well-made, juicy." Falstaff

"Lustrous, healthy mid ruby. This clearly has eclipsed the variety and expresses origin. Chalky, minerally hints under ripe, concentrated raspberry with hints of garden herbs. Great focus and balance of fresh, ripe, supple raspberry, with firm, powdery tannins that are gripping the finish, for now." Jancis Robinson

"The 2020 Colore is a pleasant surprise and an absolute feminine beauty. When I expect power, it delivers grace with a stunning bouquet of freshly cut roses, blood orange, wild strawberries and sweet smoke. It's very structured but not heavy, instead feeling like crushed velvet that lays gently across the palate, leaving mineral blackberries and redcurrants in its wake. The finish is elegant with fine-grained tannins, without slowing down the momentum, while the spicy notes slowly fade away. The Colore is made exclusively from old (70 years or older) Sangiovese vines from the Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena vineyards." Vinous

"The Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore is a pure expression of Sangiovese that comes from old vines carefully selected in different parts of Tuscany. The majority of the fruit comes from an elevated and cool site in Lamole or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of the old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the beautiful depth and complexity expressed in the Colore. Compared to his other wine, Testamatta, this wine has undergone fewer stylistic changes over the years and the aim has always been elegance and finesse. The Colore has a beautiful luminosity with flavours of dark fruit and wild berries. There is also a hint of liquorice and mint. Mineral flavours and bright acidity characterise the Colore." Wine Advocate

"The subtlety and fragrance of this wine are enchanting, offering flowers, orange peel and cherries. Also wonderful ripe strawberries. Full-bodied but not over the top, with polished tannins that run the length of the wine. It's dense, but shows all the signs of a great wine. You want to drink it now, and you probably should, because it's so seductive. But it will also age beautifully." James Suckling

From some of the oldest Sangiovese vineyards comes Colore every year, the maximum expression of Bibi Graetz' dream. The barren, sandy soils at high altitudes create the perfect terroir for a wine that can tell the true story of Tuscany and its inhabitants. The grapes for Colore were selected from vineyards in Lamole, Vincigliata and Siena. Each vineyard was harvested up to eight times in order to achieve the optimum ripening time for as many grapes as possible. Each parcel is matured separately in barriques for almost two years before the final blend is decided. Only the best Sangiovese barriques from each vintage become Colore. SUPERIORE.DE

The Colore 2021 is an irresistibly delicate Sangiovese with a distinctly high-altitude character. Darker and denser in colour than usual. It smells rich, dense, sweet and intense from the glass, much more aromatic than in previous years. Deep, spicy and very youthful with a slightly reductive note, the Colore 2021 has plenty of juice and fullness on the nose. Rich, velvety and fleshy on the tongue, it is very profound, mature and full-bodied. A great, delicate and finesse-rich Sangiovese with penetrating power and delicate acidity. Delicate, elegant and extremely persistent, it leaves a much fuller and fuller body than usual. An inspiring colore with a long finish." Weinwisser

"Brilliant medium to deep ruby red colour. Brooding and with aeration, showing a cloud of fragrant but spicy raspberry and cherry fruit and then pet shop! Just a hint of cigar box. Plenty of powdery tannins that support the fruit rather than dominate the finish. Long, tannic and supple at the same time. It will age gracefully." Jancis Robinson

"Pure and elegant, offering a beam of cherry, strawberry, pomegranate, rose and mineral aromas and flavors. This harmonious version builds in intensity to the long, fruit-filled finish, where a hint of blood orange peeks through." Wine Spectator

"The nose reveals aromas of dark fruits and berries, which are surrounded by rubbery, slightly smoky notes. A juicier, denser berry flavour defines the velvety palate, while bitter undertones of orange and chocolate provide structure. Firm, taut tannins emerge in a warm finish." Wine Enthusiast

"The Bibi Graetz 2021 Colore is a Sangiovese from old vines, but otherwise the vinification and oak ageing is identical to the other top red wine Testamatta. In this case, the fruit comes from the Lamole area with vineyards at 600 metres above sea level. Some of them face south, but are located high up on the mountain. As Bibi explains: "The Colore provides vigour and freshness, while the Testamatta offers transparency and freshness." The Colore shows the pure energy and vibrancy of Sangiovese with violets, wild cherry and orange zest. The wine shows an elegant, earthy side with a very fine mouthfeel supported by very fine, gentle tannins. This is a beautiful wine with a delicately sweet cherry finish. Bibi has changed this wine very little over the years (apart from giving it a new home at the estate in Fiesole) to create an ideal or benchmark for Sangiovese. His 2021 is his best wine yet." Wine Advocate

"Another excellent wine from Bibi Graetz made from selected old Sangiovese vines. Herbaceous and spicy on the nose, fragrant but with savoury aspects rather than overtly floral or fruity. Intense and direct, it hits you straight away with energy and forward drive. So supple and well defined, soft yet lively and energetic with tannins that are so beautifully executed. Almost plush and chewy, adding weight and texture to the palate, while overall quite light and airy. Complex and invigorating, fresh and wild at the same time - I love the character, it's pure but with a sense of authenticity that summarises the terroir and winemaking philosophy so beautifully. The finish is extremely flavoursome with mint, liquorice, spiced blackcurrants and cool cherries!" Decanter

"Intense aromas of violet fruits such as raspberries, spices, pencil and granite. Also fragrant flowers. Full-bodied, dense with balanced tannins that show transparency and focus. Crisp and very long. Better after 2028, when it opens up and integrates beautifully." James Suckling

From some of the oldest Sangiovese vineyards comes Colore every year, the maximum expression of Bibi Graetz' dream. The barren, sandy soils at high altitudes create the perfect terroir for a wine that can tell the true story of Tuscany and its inhabitants. The grapes for Colore were selected from vineyards in Lamole, Vincigliata and Siena. Each vineyard was harvested up to eight times in order to achieve the optimum ripening time for as many grapes as possible. Each parcel is matured separately in barriques for almost two years before the final blend is decided. Only the best Sangiovese barriques from each vintage become Colore.

Spicier and more intensely floral than Testamatta - as if we had moved from the fresh flowers to the perfumer's laboratory, but still with plenty of vibrant fresh rose petals. This wine is bloodier, fleshier and richer than the Testamatta Rosso with an iron note in the minerality. Generous on the palate, but also with delicacy and finesse, crushed berries and notes of candle wax. Intense due to the narrow frame, which reinforces the feeling of compactness and density. Clear, bright and with an intense flavour on the sharp finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Sparkling, very dense ruby colour. Very fine and inviting nose, classic Sangiovese fruit of dark cherry, then fine tobacco, plus blackberry and roses. Firm, gripping tannins on the palate, savoury and with good tension, has substance and depth, with pronounced earthy notes on the final." Falstaff

"The Bibi Graetz 2022 Colore only draws its fruit from two sites in this vintage: from 60-year-old vines in the Olmo vineyard (at an altitude of over 400 metres) and 88-year-old vines in Lamole (Chianti Classico). The vines are mostly south-facing, but the altitude is decisive. Testamatta, on the other hand, comes from predominantly cool, north-facing vineyards. The results show plenty of vertical vigour and sharp tones with bright fruit, mineral graphite and blue flowers. Bibi strives for transparency in his wines, and although the 2022 vintage delivers heavier fruit flavours overall, the wine offers a nice textural lightness." Wine Advocate

"Precisely moulded and very intense, the Colore 2022 is both padded and bright. Dark berries, spices and blood orange are picked up by a lingering, savoury finish. At the moment it is more closed than the Testamatta, but with time it will reveal more of its beauty." Decanter

"Perfect Sangiovese, with cherry blossom, chalk, shells, fine sand and violets on the nose and palate. Medium to full-bodied with concentrated and balanced tannins that are beautifully integrated and quite endless. Crisp and chewy on the finish. So much presence. You want to spend time with this wine. A top selection from two vineyards, the Olmo and one in the village of Chianti Classico in Lamole, aged 60 and 88 years respectively. This is a wine that gives a lot of pleasure now, but will be even better in two or three years." James Suckling

Very individualistic and quite extraordinary cuvée from Colorino, Canaiolo and Sangiovese. The bouquet is full of dark berries and the scent of elderflowers. Dense and powerful on the palate, yet slender, very clear, pithy, polished tannins and a long, full finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Powerful, with leather, plum tart, earth and tar flavors, backed by a vibrant structure. This shows heft, but a racy side lends definition to the refined finish." Wine Spectator

"I love the balance and beauty to this red with dried-strawberry, cherry and flower character. Full-bodied but reserved and polished. Ultra-fine tannins. Lively, creamy acidity. I like the volcanic salt undertone to the fruit." James Suckling

Powerful, very attractive wine. Smells of strawberry and cherry, spices and a hint of leather. Tastes juicy, very special and impresses with firm tannin and persistent length. SUPERIORE.DE

"This is opulent and fresh with cedar, berry, tobacco and orange-peel aromas and flavors. Medium body, firm tannins and a flavorful finish. Precise and powerful center palate. Fabulous length." James Suckling

"With fruit from 60-year-old vines, the 2011 Colore is a precious blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. This is a highly singular wine made in very reduced quantities (only 2,000 bottles were produced). This mid weight expression shows a dark garnet color and moderate luminosity. That muted color is recognized across the very artisanal wines made by Bibi Graetz. The quality of fruit is bitter and raw and there is some sourness on the close. Having said that, enthusiasts will appreciate these one-off wines, especially with regards to how they relate to the strong personalities that create them. Lingering ash, smoke and dark licorice add subtle elegance on the finish." Wine Advocate

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Straw yellow with golden reflections. A cooler vintage that breaks the cycle of hot vintages. A pure, fresh and lively bouquet of white grapefruit, fennel and lemon juice. On the palate, there is a great natural citrus acidity, but also a great fullness - like a volcano of freshness that shoots up vertically, with all the depth underneath. A gentle spiciness on the finish. This is the freshest vintage to date, combined with a great juiciness. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, pale straw yellow colour. Slightly restrained at the start, aromas of acacia honey, butter and light caramel. Full-bodied on the palate, juicy fruit on the mid-palate, savoury, somewhat phenolic on the final." Falstaff

"This 100% Ansonica, which comes from vineyards on the island of Giglio, offers complex notes of lemon leaves, apricots, demerara sugar, crushed apples and some hints of leek. On the palate, it is intense and tangy, with a pleasant texture and citrus notes of pink grapefruit and lemon, finishing with apricot and floral notes. A really beautiful white wine that has a lot to offer." Decanter

"The 2023 Testamatta Bianco opens with a saturated, golden yellow colour and dense aromas of peach pie, salty minerality and spicy saffron. After fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels, with frequent stirring of the lees to create a creamy finish." Wine Advocate

"Complex flavours of white pears, yellow plums and light mangoes with hints of minerals and fresh flowers. Medium to full-bodied with a dense mid palate and integrated phenols that give it grace and sophistication." James Suckling

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Rich, bright ruby colour. Initially somewhat restrained, then shows notes of dark chocolate, dark cherry, lots of blackberry, some plum. Juicy attack and finish, very good tension, opens up with fine-meshed tannins, long final." Falstaff

"The 2022 Testamatta Rosso was made from the fruit of all the north-facing vineyards and is intended to showcase the power of Sangiovese. In fact, many parcels were recently removed from the blend to focus on fruit concentration and elegance. This wine is packed with dense berry fruit, blueberries, spice and soft earth. Bright, acidic freshness gives the Sangiovese backbone." Wine Advocate

"It shows dusty, earthy notes, creamy dark cherries, green olives and spices on a vertical framework with strong salinity. It is precise and energetic, balanced and balletic, with a beautiful vibrancy of tangy raspberry, cherry, wild herbs and a hint of plum." Decanter

"The purity of the fruit is so impressive, with al dente fruit character of sliced cherries, cranberries and citrus melding together beautifully. It is medium to full-bodied and growing on the palate, with firm and layered tannins and a long, intense finish. It needs another three to four years to refine, but is already very enticing. Great beauty. Irresistible now, but best after 2027." James Suckling

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"Just mid ruby. Very youthful and a little embryonic, with notes of brooding yet fresh red fruit. Really needs time to open up and, with aeration, becomes a complex amalgam of crushed, fresh cherry and cranberry with powdery tannins. Super-elegant and long and wired with ripe acidity." Jancis Robinson

"Beautiful, fresh flavours of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon shrub. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that give the wine brightness and energy. It definitely follows the new wave of crisp, lively Tuscan Sangiovese that emphasise drinkability and transparency." James Suckling

"The 2020 Rosso Testamatta is dusty and floral in the glass, with flint, peppery herbs and tart raspberry. It is refined and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried by a seamless, silky texture. Though structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed, while a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a treasure." Vinous

"Bibi Graetz has been tinkering with his recipe for this wine for a long time, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The Testamatta 2020 is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, prioritising cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern sites). In the wake of climate change and in search of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from an airy, high-altitude site) gives Testamatta its wonderful clarity, sharpness and sublime bouquet. The result is a lively, transparent and fresh wine, both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transition and a wine to watch." Wine Advocate

"Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a beautiful fragrance and expression. The fine tannins give the wine a creamy, chalky flavour with bright, juicy strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You can also sense the savoury side, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herbs counterbalancing the fruit and high acidity. I admire the finesse here, the sharp fruit gives the energy and the chalky texture the layers. It feels well controlled, powerful yet with balance. It doesn't have as much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuances of flavour are exciting and engaging, and it has a long, serene finish. A contemplative wine that keeps you wanting more. Produced in the new winery facilities in Fiesole. The grapes come from the six best vineyards: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena, each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to reach the perfect ripening points." Decanter

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed and smells of rose petals, which fade into ripe red to dried cherries and redcurrants. This is accompanied by flavours of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar wood. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mixture of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar wood notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta is characterised by a beautiful freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins that lead into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"For the wines of Bibi Graetz, 2021 is one of the most convincing vintages to date. The Testamatta is once again a very independent, single-varietal Sangiovese with a light, delicate colour. Deep, very fragrant and seductive, the characterful bouquet then develops in a very clear manner. Juicy and transparent on the palate, long and profoundly multi-faceted, very harmonious and polished, it has a wiry, energetic acidity that gives it length and complexity. Its filigree structure is rich in finesse and expansive, slightly brittle, with a lot of Sangiovese character." Weinwisser

"Bright ruby red colour with a sparkling core. Youthful and fresh on the nose, floral, violets and fresh cherries, light pepper spice and a vegetal touch. Juicy on the palate, with present acidity, plus clear fruit in the centre and a juicy finish." Falstaff

"Brilliant and only medium ruby red in colour. Restrained nose of red fruits with exotic spice notes and a hint of soya. Very fine, still very closed and very fresh. Fairly firm tannins, which are still a little bitter at the moment, but will undoubtedly develop with further ageing. Cranberries on the finish and very elegant, although still tannic at the moment." Jancis Robinson

"The 2021 Testamatta blossoms with an array of wild strawberry, rose petal and dusty sage, yet is very understated and refined. It is silky to the core, with an elegant wave of ripe red and blue fruits flowing over a stream of fresh acidity. The wine finishes with a palpable mineral note and a crisp concentration of wild berries, while a hint of liquorice fades amidst a gentle tannin. Bibi Graetz's ongoing pursuit of purity is on full display here." Vinous

"A pure, resonant red, with strawberry, cherry, rose, wild thyme, black pepper and mineral aromas and flavors. Though taut and linear now, this offers a center of ripe fruit, terrific balance and a long aftertaste of fruit, herb and mineral notes." Wine Spectator

"The nose starts light and sweet with aromas of vanilla and cedar before becoming richer with notes of cherries and candied oranges. On the palate, an undertone of fresh earth blossoms under a starry sky of cherries and strawberries. Silky tannins invite you to linger now, while lively acidity suggests you should come back for more fun in a few years." Wine Enthusiast

"The 2021 Testamatta is a Sangiovese that comes from different vineyards with different cool microclimates. The ideal is to emphasise the transparency and fragility of the variety. The fruit from the Olmo vineyard plays a major role and "gives this wine a strong character", says Bibi. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violets, roses, forest green and candied orange peel. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives the wine a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are easy to handle and oak ageing is kept to an elegant minimum. The vinification is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and radiant." Wine Advocate

"Beautifully fragrant on the nose, delicately perfumed and inviting with subtle wildflower scents, red and black berries and sweet spices. Chalky and powdery tannins support the super bright acidity that gives this wine such a sharp, exciting and vibrant expression. The tannins are very fine but have a savoury note that maintains interest and allows the acidity and bright fruit flavours to shine through. Beautifully delineated and expressed, elegant, refined, utterly beguiling yet with layers of flavour and intensity and such a long finish. It is extremely drinkable, and that is quite an achievement at this young stage. Well crafted, balanced and pleasant with a hint of heat and spice on the finish. Really wonderful and totally charming." Decanter

"Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense, linear tannins that have an ultra-fine texture. It is fresh and savoury, bright and concentrated. Mineral and crisp. The pH is 3.4, emphasising the strength of the acidity. Crisp. Salty. So delicious now, but it will age incredibly well." James Suckling

"Twenty years in the wine business is nothing, but for me it is twenty years of my life. A life entirely dedicated to wine as a means of expression, and with the current vintage I have finally achieved the finesse I have been looking for for so long. Elegance, that is the word that describes Testamatta 2019. The 20th anniversary of Testamatta is a real milestone, the pinnacle of quality that I have been looking for in my Sangiovese since the first vintage in 2000. Testamatta 2019 is perfectly balanced with deep layers that show incredible complexity."

With these words, Bibi Graetz presented the latest vintage of his Testamatta, the fulfilment of this creative winemaker's dream. Bibi decided twenty years ago to set out from Fiesole on an extraordinary journey into the world of Tuscan wine - with the intention of striving for excellence by assembling plots of great quality, even if they are far apart. A "crazy", innovative, fascinating journey that has grown year after year.

And Testamatta means what describes this Bibi Graetz best: a smiling, creative and passionate person. The wine tells of the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines and speaks of stony soils and hillside vineyards.

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the estate's 5 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all grapes are picked at the perfect time of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Dark red in colour with black edges and a bright red hue. The nose is perfumed, with scents of rose petals that transition into ripe red to dried cherries and red currants. This is joined by aromas of earth, light tobacco, black pepper, fresh herbs and spicy cedar. Seemingly weightless on the palate, it is then flooded with a mix of red to dark cherry and redcurrant flavours, complemented by an appealing spiciness. The complexity is complemented by spicy cedar notes, forest floor and dried herbs. Testamatta 2019 is characterised by a lovely freshness with muscular but finely drawn tannins leading into a powerful yet refined finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"The 20 on the label tells of the 2019 anniversary vintage for Bibi Graetz. The Testamatta consists of pure Sangiovese and has a super delicate colour. Delicate, delicate and super light, it presents itself on the nose, very fragrant and floral, with fine, spicy notes of tobacco and herbal sweets. In the bulbous Hermitage glass of the Veritas series, it smells much fresher than in a Bordeaux goblet, a little tomato sauce and broth in the background. Superfine and fragrant, it opens with Pinot-like delicacy in the mouth. Very charming and delicate, juicy and ripe, with excellent balance. The tannins are slenderly arranged and slightly rough. Complex, idiosyncratic Sangiovese that is clearly leaner than a Chianti Classico Riserva or a Brunello di Montalcino." Weinwisser

"Sparkling ruby, luminous. Intense and appealing nose with lots of ripe plums, black cherry, plus some porcini mushrooms and dark olive paste. Powerful on the palate, crisp, precise fruit, juicy, lots of fine-grained tannin, long finish." Falstaff

"Smooth and sophisticated with polished tannin and a lovely seam of pure aromatics - sour cherry, subtle tobacco, and straw." Decanter

"A pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red." Wine Advocate

"Yet another fine year, however some wines in 2019 - although not Testamatta - lacked a little concentration. Relatively light in colour, it's at the other end of the density scale to the wines of the early 2000s. There are piquant raspberry and redcurrant aromas and both the nose and palate show admirable delicacy and restraint. Very elegant and pure, its fine acidity gives excellent length and ageing potential." Decanter

"Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025." James Suckling

Testamatta means "crazy in the head" and this name hits the nail on the head. When you know with what mad obsession Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand personality-strong results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by many years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work, until finally the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines of the rocky single vineyard Serrone were identified.

The harvest is exclusively manual and each grape is meticulously selected for its quality and degree of ripeness, which then finds its way into the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at low temperature, then transferred unfiltered to 225l barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

straw yellow with golden reflections. Complex bouquet of white pineapple, apple, pear and kiwi, fine notes of mussel shell. Full-bodied, multi-layered and fleshy on the palate, always with a very precise and energetic mouthfeel, pleasant freshness and a mineral impression. Then, in the endlessly long finish, salty layers, fine, barely noticeable tannin and notes of white pepper. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Sparkling, rich straw yellow. Fine and fragrant nose of mirabelle plums, camomile, some resin and light honey. Full-bodied on the palate, has good tension, nutty-creamy in the back, salty finish." Falstaff

"A solid white with dried pear, apple, cream and stone aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied with a beautiful core of fruit and a steely, minerally aftertaste. Bright acidity with phenolic texture that holds the wine together nicely, giving it length and tension. Turns lightly chewy and round at the end." James Suckling

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified.

The grapes are harvest exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Straw yellow with golden reflections. Complex bouquet of white pineapple, apple, pear and kiwi, fine notes of mussel shell. Full-bodied, multi-layered and fleshy on the palate, always with a very precise and energetic mouthfeel, pleasant freshness and a mineral flavour. The endlessly long finish has salty layers, fine, barely perceptible tannins and notes of white pepper. Rightly one of Italy's cult white wines! SUPERIORE.DE

"Luminous straw. A gorgeous, perfumed nose with garden herbs and basil and chalk and just a hint of mint? Amazing precision, and the fruit is right on the edge before fading into orange or tangerine. Fine citric palate. Very focused, but taut and viscous and a little restrained. Very precise and long." Jancis Robinson

"The Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta Bianco is fresh in character and linear in terms of its aromatic delivery. It helps that one-third of the wine goes through stainless steel, with the rest in neutral oak. This approach allows you to better appreciate aromas of fresh peach, white plumeria flower, persimmon, salty minimality and iodine. It's also worth noting that the Testamatta sources much of its fruit from north-facing slopes. Those cooler conditions certainly help in a hot vintage like 2022." Wine Advocate

"Lots of lemon curd, honeysuckle, white peach, white stone and other flowers. Underneath it all, some blanched almonds and sea breeze. Also a hint of seaweed. Full-bodied and multi-layered with pronounced flavours of dried lemons and apples. Oyster shells. Some phenols produced by the wind during the growing season." James Suckling